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R32 coupe GTST black

BM50 90

Black electric mirrors 60 ea

Head lights 125 ea mint condition

34 mm water temp adapter 10

Drivers window switch 60

5 bolt shafts 100 pair

PAIR OF 32 Seats, drivers has small rip, passenger immac! 50 dollars, taking up space, want my space back, cheeeap seats

A pillar covers 25

Floor carpet 40

Gab front shocks has springs on them assume lowered 70
Stock rear springs 60

Passenger door glass 20

Drivers door in good shape, with window in black 140

Seat belts, 60 each

Steering wheel centre button, 10
Lower control arms, 60 each, 100 pair
Castor arms 40 each

R33 s1 coupe Black 141,000kms

RB25DET Motor with all accessories, Loom, ECU, turbo (doesn’t look like rb25 std turbo, still Nissan though)
It was running and driving fine but you could hear a slight tapping noise from timing case, assumed idler/ tensioner pulley. Was louder with timing case off. Considering this I have priced it to go!
Also had great oil pressure and spooled up well.
$1200, cheapest complete rb25det you will find.

Complete RB25DET manual conversion.
good condition box, shifted very smooth, no noises
Flywheel, clutch, clutch master, clutch slave, clutch lines, clutch pedal, interior surround (needs boot), shifter, gear knob, tail shaft. The lot.
1450 firm
400 without box

Complete front and rear 5 stud conversion, big 4 pot brakes
Great for S chassis and NA skylines plus others!
Good pads and discs, pulled up really nicely
Hubs, brakes, front uprights, brake lines, brake pads, brake discs, everything you need.
500

Complete rear subframe with all arms only missing hubs/ brakes
with
great upgrade for r32/s13’s and such.
With diff/ shafts 400
without diff/shafts 250

Stock rear springs, great shape, 70

LSD differential, good condition 175

5 Bolt drive shafts $100

Drivers door, excellent paint
- 80, glass without regulator
-130, glass with regulator

Passenger door,
Complete with glass and reg 130

Door trims
50 ea

Window regs, 70 each

Floor carpet, good condition
40

Seat belts, 60 each

Interior plastics
$10-$30

Dashboard
35, vents at front bit cracked

Steering rack 100

engine cross member 90

Auto Rad, works in manuals too 70

Bare r33 shell, Mint rear quarter panels, not rolled, awesome paint, 150

Front guards
Drivers 80 mint condition
Passenger 40 slight bend at top

Lots more r33 parts as I am stripping the car

Parts to suit many cars

Green label Air flow meter 60 bucks
I have 2, good upgrade for rb26

Green label afm, not working, has been opened up and glued back closed, 15

6x Series 1 coil packs, perfect working order 80

6x Series 2 coil packs, I have never used them, so unknown 50

Rb25det coil pack loom, works fine, few chipped plugs, 40

2x Pod filter adapter 15 each

ALL LOCATED IN ALTONA, VIC
CAN HELP WITH DELIVERY/ SHIPPING
DELIVERY REQUIRES DEPOSIT
PRICES RELATIVLY FIRM
Although, Discounts if you buy more than two things.

SMS me for more info and photos
0433200452

I will try check this often but I forget about it

  • 1 month later...

Hey, have you got the the boost solenoid setup? im after the line from the intercooler piping towards the wastegate / boost solenoid, it has a red stripe on it as it has a restrictor in it to allow the 7psi 2nd stage.

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    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
    • Sounds good. Provided the panel is flat/level I'd be happy to start the painting process.  While you are learning, for sure you could do this. Its only paint, you can always sand it all back and start again. Its only your time and money on materials, but while you're learning, really its time and money spent on your education.  Once you know how to do this bodywork and painting, you won't want to waste your time and money on frivolous activities lol. 
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    • Prior to laying down the primer, you need to make sure the surface is completely level. For example, based on this picture, I strongly suspect that the areas marked in blue are higher then the area marked in green.  If you spray primer over this entire area, then paint and clear it, the finished result will 100% show the low area. It will stick out like dogs balls. Unfortunately the paint won't magically level out the low areas as you lay it down.  Without seeing it in person, I expect that the green area will need to be filled, then use a guide coat and check that the entire repair area is level with a large sanding block.  With this picture, are you saying that even though you can see the scratches, the panel is in fact completely smooth and flat? If this is the case sure you could prep and paint it as it is.     The picture with the paint you described as blistering, it's hard for me to comment on from the photo alone. It looks like the panel is wet? Dunno, looks strange. Does the panel feel as smooth as glass when you run your hand over it? **** Going back to your question again, generally you would only sand the primer if you made a mistake while laying down the primer.  If the panel is prepped properly and you lay the primer down properly, you should not need to sand the primer.  This wouldn't work - Don't prep the panel. Spray primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas where the issues appear. Spray more primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas....... Yeah you'd go round and round in circles getting no where. 
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