Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

This maybe a stupid question, but I've got the opportunity to buy some Deatsch Werks injectors and the 850cc and 1000cc are both the same price so I was wondering if there is any reason not to just grab the bigger ones?

Cheers for any help,

- Lance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440775-850cc-vs-1000cc-deatsch-werks/
Share on other sites

They are the older type and unlike the new ID range which work well at low duty cycles the older type can idle. poorly etc .

How much power do you plan to make? I have 550 Deatschwerks in my car currently at 314AWKW. (418hp)

Rough rule of thumb is 850cc = 850hp gross and 1000cc = 1000hp gross (on petrol)

I'm looking at the ones from Black Label Performance, Bob, are they the old ones? Currently making 270rwkw with 550cc injectors. Was planning on around 300 - 350rwkw. I emailed Sochi from Sthitec about it and he recommended 650cc~700cc for that power figure so I guess he was just covering ass if 550cc's will do the job...

Cheers,

- Lance

Edited by Captain Wow

Deatschwerks are generally reconditioned and matched Jecs etc. The 600cc should get you to your goal ok.

The IDs are just matched Bosch injectors so may be worth getting a price from Scott for some 1000s or 1200s. Not sure if they are a bolt into the Neo or if you will need a new rail for them.

I can easily beat those prices Lance. ;)

Is yours a Neo engine? If so the Xspurt 55mm injectors will work great, I also make my own plug adapters so they just drop in. I will PM you some prices if you like.

I would go with the 1000's personally, seeing you are upgrading from 550's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...