Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Autronic you say? Yeah, great support there.

MoTec or at least Power FC please.

I've heard too many horror stories with Wolf now that I am scared. Honestly the amount of RB25's i've heard blowing up with Wolf's alone far exceeds a total of all others. However, the ones that have all gone to my knowledge have been stock injectors pushed too far with pressure regulators etc.

Josh

go a unichip (if they work on ur car that is)

Cheaper then a safc and ebc combo, and unichip controls both ign and fuel, and has a boost controller aswell, like the one i have for sale. Check it out. Id recommend it definately over safc, but if u want to spend more go a full ecu like the wolf.

goodluck

Fane, Can you name any RB25 with forged pistons that has blown up on the Wolf?

I can name a few forged piston engines which have blown up with both PowerFC's and Autronic's on. What does this tell you? Nothing. Engines have there limits, and not all tuners are equal.

WE see as many blowen 25s with PFC and factory ECUs.

Use what ever you want im not bothered but dont expect to beat our guys as Ant and Fabs are moveing the bench mark much higher.

Even GTAAH picked up 70rwhp by replacing his big name ECU with a wolf and The CRED R33 GTS ran well at 400rwhp on a stock RB25 at the drift last weekend. The bigggest drawback with Wolf we cant get enough units to keep up with demand.

You say the old wolf was outdated but forget the old Motecs were screw driver tunable so dont judge the latest units by old models but then again there is some very tough cars out there with V3s.

Basically the long and the short of it is that as long as the tuner is comfortable with the ECU and knows its limitations then there shouldn't be any problems... Every ECU has hidden tid bits that perform certain functions... The other thing to remember with tunable ECU's is that if the customer plays with the settings then its not the tuners or ECUs fault for lunching the engine... But sometimes freak things DO happen and its NO ONES fault...

fane,

to say that because rb25s with wolfs have got belly-up may be true - but I think that you're drawing a long bow to say that the two are a cause and effect.

there is a very good looking morone r32 gtr which spun a bearing some time ago. in a really sad story, it has been rebuilt, was running a pfc, nismo turbos, great fuel pump, and it recently spun the same big end bearing in tune. so what can we infer from this? that the rb26 is a shit engine? (no!) that the skyline is a bad car? (no!) that the power fc is a crap ECU? (nope!).

the simple fact is that mechanical failure is not always a result of the ECU, or the car, or the engine - and so on.

as far as this relates to ECU's, and your questions, the skylines which have shat themselves recently have sometimes had wolfs in. however, they are now more powerful than they were before, are subject to greater loads - often using higher boost and turbos. as paul pointed out, the incidence of ringland failure is more symptomatic of the capacity for the ringlands to sustain 350rwhp than the capacity of the ECU to hold a good, safe tune. notwithstaning this - it may be worth asking what other support upgrades had been included? how many of these cars had baffled surge tanks, oil coolers or improved radiators? how many had headgaskets (debate unto itself) or forged pistons?

the first reality is that the ECU is only as good as the tuner. we're lucky to have someone in WA who is adept at tuning the wolf - and so that's what a lot of people are using. the second is that the engine is only as good as the engine. and a ten year old rb25det is only good for about 300 rwhp reliably and any more will be pushing it.

that's not to say the wolf is categorically the best ECU around, either. it can be argued that the processors on wolf arent as good as some other ecus. just do a search. however, given that we are talking about what are generally street cars, the wolf provides more than enough capacity to provide a good ECU, and has options easily at hand that are not available or not included in the base price of other ecus.

as far as AFC + EBC or full ECU, I cant figure why you would buy two seperate items - that cant talk to each other directly other than via the factory ecu and the engine - when you could have a single unit, and save yourself the spaghetti bullshit for around the same price.

One of the best knowen Blowups in WA was an RB26 with a cost no option build running a Jap remap and tuned but a well knowen jap tuner and the car was making over 100rwhp less than ND4SPD and GTAAH so whats the point in blaming Wolf ECUs? When PPL want to push for high power from stock parts things will fail.

One of the best knowen Blowups in WA was an RB26 with a cost no option build running a Jap remap and tuned but a well knowen jap tuner and the car was making over 100rwhp less than ND4SPD and GTAAH so whats the point in blaming Wolf ECUs? When PPL want to push for high power from stock parts things will fail.

i understand the limits of the rb25/26 and pushing them is usually the reason for them to go keeerrrpow!... and i wasnt blaming wolfs for the deaths either...i was just interested about why the wolf is only so huge in WA.

my guess is that its because we have tuner here that can tune them and no one else really can crazily tune anything else....and with cars like ND4SPD promoting the wolf its hard to say a bad word about them....because 500 ppl come on here and stick up for them because they probably have one :rofl:

merely posing questions not pointing fingers....

Well i just bought a Power Fc, and had of been able to find a tuner in Melb that had installed and tuned one on a car similar to mine which had ran reliably for 6 months, then i would have happily paid the money for the Wolf.

I didnt really want a Pfc, but dont have the garage space or time at the moment to install the Autronic, making a plug in ECU the only choice... Wolf or Power Fc, the Wolf would have even been cheaper.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...