Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Losing Power

kyle345
 Share

Recommended Posts

kyle345 Enthusiast

kyle345

Posted
Posted

Ok to keep it simple as possible with no confusion

I own a R34GT Auto

For some reason when i press the accelerator the car feels heavy like its struggling to get power, the revs dont go up in sync with when i press the pedal, almost goes to the floor before power kicks in but its still very week.

Sometimes it runs fine and this doesnt happen so this tells me its an electrical problem seeing as its intermittent. It seems to only happen on cold starts, and if i start my car hot it seems to be fine sometimes. The performance does not change during driving you have to physically turn the car off and back on.

Ran scan tool and i got these codes.

Engine: P0325 Knock Sensor - B1

A/T: Shift S/V A(P SW)


I doubt its the knock sensor so i think its to do with the transmission code but have no idea what that is.



Car has done 160,000km


Any Ideas????? Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440969-r34-losing-power/
Share on other sites
kyle345 Enthusiast

kyle345

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I am a mechanic... A knock sensor is not something that would cause power loss.

My theory it is something with the gear box like it is stuck in limp mode or something so maybe the shift solenoid needs replacing. So im thinking thats what shift s/v stands for. "Shift solenoid valve".

Could be wrong im just not sure because this problem does not throw any lights

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

knock sensor could be throwing it into limp mode right?

Maybe.

I don't think it would go into a limp mode as such (doesn't exist) , but would likely be running on the knock maps which are rich and have timing pulled.

And your trans is unhappy.

asps91 Rising Star

asps91

Posted
Posted (edited)

The knock sensor is very delicate on the 3sgte and there have been many counts of them failing once they take a high reading of knock for your information.

Im obviously aware that it is not an mr2, i am just imputing a real world experience i have gone through with simular symptoms. No need to be rude about it mate... We are all here to help after all.

Edited by asps91
kyle345 Enthusiast

kyle345

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmm doubt its CAS or AFM. Because its not throwing a primary ign code.

I wonder why its only sluggish when it starts cold but if i start it hot its heaps better.

Thinking about giving it an AT service and replace that solenoid because i know thats the reason why sometimes AT light comes on and gets stuck in 3rd (common problem after they reach 140,000)

But sluggish wise i dont think its the AT

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yes. The f**king knock sensor and the fact your trans is unhappy can't be helping.

Fix the error codes on ecu. That's why they are there.

What do you want to hear?

What do you want to fix?

Also cas or afm won't cause an ignition error code. Problems with the coil packs or coil loom will (that is the ignition system)

Edited by superben
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

21 is ignition code.

What have you seen that says the cas and afm don't have an individual specific code for them? Cos they have their own codes.

Maybe your research isn't up to scratch?

www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/uploads/post-50241-1260308643.jpg

anyway,do what you want. Ignore the knock sensor code, worry about the converter etc....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • MBS206
      Recommendation for engine oil funnel spill free

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • Duncan
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
×
×
  • Create New...