Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Location: Newmarket, Brisbane.

All pics are here: http://1drv.ms/1fW8hcO

Can post some items.

R32 coupe door glass LH and RH, $15 each PICKUP only

R32 GTST Standard airbox $20

R32 front guards. All panels straight and rust free. LH (gold-suit repainting) $25 & 2xRH (1xgold-suit repainting) $25, (1xgunmetal grey one large scratch) $45. Pick up only.

R32 GTST rear bar (needs repainting), reo, reverse lights and number plate lights. $60 Pick up only

R32 GTST door cards LH & RH $15 each Pick up only

R32 coupe 2 x driver side window/mirror switch. $20 each

R32 coupe Passenger side window switch $5.

R32 climate control/aircon control box $10

R32 GTST gauge surround with switches shown in pic. $20

R32 assorted switches including clockspring and indicator stalk. $20
for the set shown in pic.

R32 radiator and fan shroud. Not sure if radiator leaks but looks ok. $20 for both. Pickup only.

R32 standard front strut brace $15 Pickup only.

R32 GTST type M side skirts, includes rear quarter skirts. Needs repainting, RH skirt has minor damage but hardly recogniseable when on the car. $40 for the set. Pickup only.

R32/R33 rear hicas lockbar $10.

R32 projector headlights RH and LH, $40 each.

R32 GTST clear aftermarket indicators, one of the tabs is broken but can easily be secured with zip ties. Sell as pair $40

R32 coupe rear taillights (needs repainting) $50 pair.

R32 coupe boot seal in excellent condition $5

R32 manual centre console surround, manual boot needs replacing. $15.

R32 blower motor fan $10

R32 coupe window motor assembly 1x LH & 2xRH. $10 each

R32 handbrake lever. $10.

R33 GTST rear Ohlins shocks and springs. Height adjustable (circlip) and damper adjustable, In good working order, no leaks. $50 set PICK UP ONLY.

R33 RB25DET Series 1 camshafts (set) $30

R33 RB25DET Series 1 factory coils, set of 6. $50

HKS mushroom pod filter suit RB. $15

Turbosmart Vee Port atmo bov. Bolt on for RB20/25 $20

Will consider straight swaps for:

Unmarked top half R33 dash.

Full R33 boot interior.

Edited by Alf
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441140-qld-various-r32-r33-parts/
Share on other sites

Centre console surround, door cards, rear taillights, gauge (cluster) surround, rear Ohlins shocks and front bumper SOLD

Strut brace https://ljb9mg.dm2303.livefilestore.com/y2pbqpJCsEeRnRZatGzSvRWYrDzrMYZFYPAINiJxff9fsgjv6CyE6xxMFLO83jntgHJww91DrmBtU97XHFiqwdAJujbCuO2mv62-hVJ4qLtaXg/100_0056.JPG?psid=1

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Can you put up a pic of the air box thanks. Might be interested pending the shape.

(Missing an air box and haven't any clue what they look like stock) sorry for the odd question.

Cheers

http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag338/brian30det/100_0027_zpsf91a8258.jpg

http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag338/brian30det/100_0026_zps9916a590.jpg

Brilliant, I'll take it please. I'll be able to make this work easier then folding up a alloy box I had in mind.

If you PM me your details ill deposit the money.

Regarding freight as I'm in adelaide. I can organise TNT to collect it from you if you could box it up and label it with some shipping details.

Thank you.

Chris,

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...