Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

A couple of mates bought me a NOS branded nitrous kit (it's a "Sniper" wet kit, with 1 fogger) for my birthday (lucky me! :D ).

It looks pretty simple to install.

What I can't get my head around, and I've done a fair bit of searching and reading around on the net for this but still can't find an answer, is how is the tuning done?

1. From my research it looks as though the timing needs to be retarded during the period for which the nitrous is being injected.
2. How does the PowerFC (or any ECU for that matter) know when the nitrous is being injected into the mixture? For example:

a) 1 run at the drags I run with nitrous, the ECU somehow injects it during a certain range of revs and retards the timing at the same time.

b) Next run, I turn the NOS off. Presumably during that same rev range the timing will be retarded which I guess is a loss in power? So 99% of the time (i.e. when I'm not using NOS) I will have less power through that rev range? So does that mean I need multiple maps?

3. Do I need a NOS controller so I can program the rev range for which I want the NOS injected? I'm only looking for more mid-range torque/power, not top end power.

4. Are there ECU's available (Vipec perhaps?) that have inbuilt nitrous control to avoid having to get a separate NOS controller if using my PowerFC?

Thanks for any advice! I'm totally new to NOS and really don't understand the tuning side of things.

High level mods are: GT35R, stock bottom end, running on E85 full time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441147-powerfc-d-jetro-and-nitrous-tuning/
Share on other sites

What pills does the sniper kit come with?

From memory they aren't a big kit.

Buy a data logit kit. Have a map tuned for the gas. Use data logit to swith between the maps. Ie upload the gas tune when using it. Then switch back to the normal one when not

More so you need to richen up the mixture as NO is introduced into the intake, as NO will cause the "current" fuel mixture to lean out.

Just think of lightly as compressed air entering the combustion mix, as you introduce more air, you need to supplement that with a fuel source.

More advanced ECUs will allow you setup an input trigger so as the NO is injected your fuel mixtures richen, with the PowerFC I'm not sure it's possible as it has no AUX inputs. Another common old school setup is to run a separate fuel injector to inject extra fuel in as NO is sprayed into the motor.

It's a wet kit John, meaning it also injects fuel.

Where are you planning putting the fogger to ensure even distribution. That's what I would be worried about

ooo totally missed that part haha.. skim read the OP and saw retard timing, NOS and PowerFC

It's a wet kit John, meaning it also injects fuel.

Where are you planning putting the fogger to ensure even distribution. That's what I would be worried about

The fogger placement I was going to leave to the tuner. I would install the bulk of the system and stop at fogger placement / installation as this is obviously a critical element to the effectiveness (and safety, no doubt) of the overall installation.

Cheers for the responses guys. I made a phone call to a tuner today and he suggested that switching between maps via the Datalogit wouldn't be the way to go - I didnt query why though. Not sure then if I should consider upgrading the ECU to something along the lines of what jonnilicte suggested - something with an AUX port such as a Link G4 or Vipec. Bummer!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...