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If your idle is 1000 rpm with the tps disconnected then you need to adjust the idle down to 750 before checking the timing again as it may be slightly different.

As for sounding like a wrx, generally if it sounds like that then a cylinder isn't firing, from either lack of fuel or spark. Did you disconnect anything to do with fuel or ignition when you did the timing belt?

I checked it with a timing light the usual way man

I just forgot to buy a spark plug lead when I was at sprints buying the new plugs

And yeah mad082 your right, ill have to check the fsm to find out exactly the rpm I need

Misfire ended up being coilpack wiring so it idles so nicely now

yeah just checked the fsm it says 650

but your right thats very low

so it says 650 and 15 degrees +/- 2

so ill aim for 750 and 15 ish

if i get that right does that mean its set up properly now and should be fine to drive?

thanks for your help guys especially cal, helped with heaps lately

car might make matsuri now haha

What do u mean , you just said 650 ?

Ive set it at about 750- 800 now, idle is about 18 ish degrees advanced

Ecu is still pulling the timing back when it's under load

Going to check for codes tomorrow, won't be surprised if I see knock sensor code

Ecu is still pulling the timing back when it's under load

Going to check for codes tomorrow, won't be surprised if I see knock sensor code

What do you mean "under load"? The engine isn't really "under load" at idle.

You don't get a "knock" code if you have knock, you get a "knock" code if there is a problem with the knock sensors or circuitry.

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so i think being an old 89 gtst my ecu only has one diagnostic mode

self diagnostics? or real time...

which is giving me the all clear, code 55,

but going up the road, its still running majorly retarded and the exhaust temp light is flashing and so is the ecu light

its just flashing randomly, not any particular code or number or sequence..

does this mean the old ecus are real time or self diagnostic?

like, do i have to drive it to pick up ecu fault codes, or does it log the last 50 starts or whatever it is and remembers if it picked up a code or not

because its giving me no codes,... but still running with no power

cant find much info on it, there is only info on how to use the diagnostics, not whether its real time or self.

or whether there is different modes or not

just read this like straight after

http://performanceforums.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-67188185.html

single led ecus record last 50 starts and will flash error codes from the last 50 starts

so ive got no ecu codes

yet my ecu is still retarding the timing,

also i forgot to mention, i relocated the fuse box and moved the battery to the boot at the same time as this work. probably important, but nothing on the fuse box was cut

i might try resetting the ecu and see what that does because the leds shouldnt be flashing as im driving.

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