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R33 Gtst Won't Start

Skyride

By Skyride,
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Skyride Apprentice

Skyride

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The compression across all 6 is 148ish psi. I did it before I parked it with compression gauge through spark plugs holes. Never done this with compression gun.

In any case it was running close to perfect before I parked it. Nothing changed other than (-40C) for 4 months (had to park gtr inside - I need bigger garage lol).

I think she is just being a bitch abd its her payback time for leaving her in the cold alone outside lol.

I will keep you posted once I try ecu swap.

Skyride Apprentice

Skyride

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Update:

Swapped ECU. Same result.

Put my ecu back, just for the hell of it (everything in pieces anyway lol), popped the valves and timing cover. I do have this half moon thingy at exhaust cams.

Cyl1/cyl6 markes up to tdc by the book.

Fuel pump gives me nice 43 psi.

So after all that I put it all back together and started playing with CAS. After about 60 degrees (!) CW she started to sputter. I turned her off and ordered a new CAS. Can it be that the disk (or whatever inside) slipped from freezing/unfreezing? Electrically it works both ways and shaft aligns one way only...

Well I will take the old CAS apart once I get a new one just curious to see how tjose things can be refurbished. I had problem with my logitech wheel for my GT5 game and after I ordered a/m optical disk - it worked properly. I assume CAS is similar encoder in operation...

Well, probably will take at least a week to get new CAS and try again....

Skyride Apprentice

Skyride

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Took apart my CAS. Thought I will share my findings for those who is curious what's inside:

20140409_153805_zpsa41e20c8.jpg

Found this nasty stain on the disk and cleaned this with alcohol:

20140409_154101_zps4f94cef4.jpg

After cleaning, I ran it on the Scopemeter and here is the readings:

cas33_zps05ecc0e7.png

You can see that pulses are all over the map and are not consistent. It somewhat reads 120 degrees but absolutely blind to 1 degree. I guess the photodiode is fried from all the moisure that got in.

This is also the R33 (left) and R32 GTR (right) CAS for comparison. The OEM part numbers for the CAS housing and internals are different and GTR CAS didn't read true as well on R33 ECU. So no luck so far.

20140409_155902_zps414c35ba.jpg

I ordered a new CAS just to find out that apparently you can buy the internals only and refurbish it. I am not sure if I am allowed to post the links here so if not, mods please delete. Here is the one I found on ebay for 1/3 of the price of a new CAS. Just hope that may be this info will help someone down the road :)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OEM-QUALITY-Nissan-Patrol-Serena-Skyline-Y60-C23-R32-R33-Crank-Angle-Sensor-/120991786051

Cheers!

Edited by Skyride
  • 2 weeks later...
Skyride Apprentice

Skyride

Posted
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Update:

Finally got a new CAS in mail. No luck. I also got a hold of working oem ecu and again, no luck.

It's a real mystery. A few friends of mine look at the problem too and they are as stumbled as I am. We went again through all the ignition system, fuel system, injectors, timing, sensors involved, replaced sensors with proven working ones (such as temp sensor, etc), completely disconnected all the wires from alarm system, checked neutral and clutch and other switches, throttle positioning sensor, pluged and unpluged NVCT solenoid, even brought the camera from work to see the injectors timing looking inside the pistons though spark plugs hole... All the relays are replaced, all the fuses are replaced, all the grounds checked. Went through wiring diagrams over and over and over again ringing all the wires at least three times...

It seems like everything and anything was done. I have fuel, I have ignition but no start... I do have a consult cable coming in mail but both ecu we checked shows 55 code so I don't expect much when I get the cable.

Just before I completely give up and start ripping it apart to sell in pieces... any ideas? ANYTHING? This is first time that even people who have seen quite a few RBs in their life just gave up on me... I love this car and rather see it on the road again.

What are my options at this point? Seriously, is there anything can be done?

Edited by Skyride
Skyride Apprentice

Skyride

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Have you checked compression?

Are you Sure ALL Fuses and Relays are fine? Swapped and replaced etc...

Have you tried a different Battery / jump starting?

We repeated compression test a few times since last time I checked. My gauge that I checked first time apparently read a bit off but with two different gauges it reads consistent 160,160, 158. 160, 157, 160 from 1 to 6 with two different gauges and three times in different days with other systems off/on.

I don't do "all-ish". ALL of them have been replaced. Even the ones that look good and ring true. All of them.

And yes, I have a few batteries to choose from and was connecting it to regular terminals in the trunk and to terminals in the engine bay. Even unscrewed terminals in engine bay and cleaned them all....

Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted

It's 100% a series 2? Not series 1 with separate ignitor?

All electrical Plugs are 100% connected? No Blockages in intake? ie. rags etc.

(sorry if Q's are repeated.)

It really sounds spark / electrical related but what? is a true mystery. :(

  • Like 1
Skyride Apprentice

Skyride

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It's 100% a series 2? Not series 1 with separate ignitor?

All electrical Plugs are 100% connected? No Blockages in intake? ie. rags etc.

(sorry if Q's are repeated.)

It really sounds spark / electrical related but what? is a true mystery. :(

Please don't be sorry! I appreciate the input! And yeah, we did everything you mentioned. A few times.

I am trying to convince my husband to help me build a standalone harness to bypass everything chassis connected and just connect the systems responsible for start up. But it's too labor intensive and I think the verdict will be to part it out...

I agree however that it's most likely some wierd electrical grimlin in the system :D We both do equipment commissioning for a living and we saw similar situations with heavy machinery... Well, I will fight and double check everything again and if I don't find anything, in pieces she goes...

  • 2 weeks later...
Skyride Apprentice

Skyride

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Update:

This story has a happy ending! The bitch started today. But not before we ripped all the grounds and bypassed chassis grounds completely. We installed a copper ground bus in the engine bay and reconnected all the grounds to the one common point. On some grounds we removed you could see the traces of some really bad arcing and some were just green from oxidazation or rusted to shit. Another benefit of doing this except of course that now I can enjoy my car again is that the rust will form way less now that chassis are not grounded but just bonded.

YAY! Here she is:

IMG_8448_1res_zpsc3198860.jpg

Cheers!

ps: oh, and to add. Now I have lots of spare parts. Since we didn't know what's wrong, I ordered a pile of stuff that apparently was working just fine. So win win lol.

Edited by Skyride

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