Jump to content
SAU Community

[Vic] 1993 R33 Gtst Skyline

kangaroosa
 Share

Recommended Posts

kangaroosa Apprentice

kangaroosa

Posted
Posted (edited)

Up for sale is my 1993 R33 GTST. This used to be my car I had in Tasmania, but have since moved it here and simply have no room for it. The car is currently still on Tas rego, but it will be cancelled upon the sale. Therefor it will be sold unregistered and without a RWC.

Odometer: 252,759

5 Sp manual

The Good Points:
- New carpet has been fitted within the last few weeks.
- The headlights have been restored
- The front bar has been replaced with a standard one. The reinforcement bar is complete and uncut so the FMIC is completely legal.
- Its got a Cat back exhaust system.
- Its running a boost controller and currently only set to 8psi which is close to stock.

- HKS Turbo Timer
- Has an Apexi POD filter
- Its got an aftermarket Aluminum radiator
- 600mm x 300mm Front Mounted Intercooler fitted without cutting the reinforcement bar, so its all legal.
- Lowered Springs all round.
- The turbo was replaced with a reco standard item a few years back.
- The engine is believed to have been rebuilt by a performance shop in Launceston for the previous owner. I took the car in for a service and the mechanic remembered the car. However i don't have receipts for that work.
The Odometer does show higher km's than alot of other skylines, but the engine is in great shape. The new turbo is a bonus and the engine doesn't blow smoke.

Not so good Points:
- Body has a few small dints here and there for a car of its age.
- The paint still has some great shine but has some swirl marks, so it could do with a professional cut and polish.
- Needs 4 new Tyres. 2 are legal but getting close to unroadworthy
- The rear bar has a dint
- Drivers seat is worn on the side from getting in and out of the car. Also has a few little marks and tears on the backs of the seats where the pockets are.
- Few cracks in the plastic around gear shifter boot and the drivers inside handle.

Price: $8500 ONO

Location: Springvale, VIC

Contact - Darren 0403 380 662

Call after 5pm or TXT or PM me and i will get back to you when i can.

post-131950-0-78529100-1396854785_thumb.jpg

post-131950-0-28926300-1396854812_thumb.jpg

post-131950-0-70067000-1396854841_thumb.jpg

post-131950-0-29061200-1396854867_thumb.jpg

post-131950-0-92878300-1396854895_thumb.jpg

post-131950-0-72057600-1396854933_thumb.jpg

post-131950-0-39110300-1396854956_thumb.jpg

post-131950-0-36929000-1396854980_thumb.jpg

post-131950-0-40908300-1396855006_thumb.jpg

Edited by kangaroosa
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
kangaroosa Apprentice

kangaroosa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So rego runs out tommorrow. Due to being flat out at work i cant jump on the boat and dump it back there at a mates place to sell. I have the option to pay reg and keep it for another 6 months but im trying to avoid that as i dont even drive it. The battery went flat a month back and hasnt moved since 3 weeks before that.

Anyone got any ideas on how i could sell this thing asap? Ive had a few people call and they sounded like fools. Tried to offer me $2k over phone without even sighting the car. I really cant be bothered parting it out, nor do i like pulling apart a fully working car.

Anyway, im at the end of my tether with the car. If i had an offer of $5k i would hand over the keys immediately. Thinking my last resort will be a wrecker for considerably less $$.

So hit me up with an offer if your keen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GoHashiriya
      ER34 AT ECU and HKS SLD pins

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Hi all, I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.  The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals: Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment? The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.  R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
    • Daleo
      Exemplary Сasual Dating - Real Women

      By Daleo · Posted

      Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • dyl33
      Creative in cabin amp locations

      By dyl33 · Posted

      Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • GTSBoy
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • GTSBoy
      Pillowball/Hardened Runner Hybrid Approach

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
×
×
  • Create New...