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Hi guys,

Here's an electrical diagnostics challenge, I believe.

A few weeks ago, my fuel gauge started playing up. It basically went straight up to a 'Full' tank and stayed there, even as I used fuel.

Every now and then, after i start the car, it will drop to the actual fuel level. However, after 5 mins it will slowly creep back up again.

All of the fuel sender issues reported for R33 and R34 models (I have a R34 turbo coupe) seem to show the fuel level ok until half way, where it will stay, OR it will immediately drop to 0. I have not experienced this, so I want to see if anyone has had a similar problem they solved without touching the fuel pump and sender (I am not a mechanic, would prefer to avoid going there unless no one has any other ideas)

I noticed when i removed my back seat recently that when the engine is on (and even perhaps when priming the ignition?) there is a high pitched whine coming from the wiring/distributing harness halfway through the cabin on the drivers side (will post picture tomorrow in daylight). I'm thinking of hitting this with some contact cleaner?

Has anyone experienced anything like this?

Thanks!

Mick

I've had suggestions that it's coming out of the speakers, but i had RCA cables and remote running down one side that are unplugged at both ends, and no power wires at all.

  • 2 weeks later...

For reference, took this into the mechanic today. At some point, the previous owner had messed around with the sender, and the two brushes connecting the float and the rods had one snapped off. My mechanic extended the snapped wire and put it all back together, and the gauge now reads permanently alright. The fuel gauge sometimes read correctly before when at a certain angle where the rod would travel and push against the broken wire.

However, the bracket holding the pump and sender in the tank had obviously been exposed to air/condensation, and have built up considerable rust. Rusty fuel got everywhere when the tank was opened up. Fortunately, the fuel filter appears to have been doing its job, though its looking a little old and will definitely be replaced in the next service in 2000kms time.

As for the sound, I swear that i can not hear the whine anymore. This will probably be fully muffled when i put the car seats back in

All up, $330 GONE! labour only. This is why we ask the forums first :)

Hope this helps anyone that may have similar issues in the future.

Mechanic himself suggested just wait till i come back in for the service and will have the car on the hoist - would you consider this important enough to move forward?

Are you talking about the intank filter or the one in the engine bay?

If in the bay, rip it off and slap in a new one. Cheap insurance.

Ryco Z200 and no naked Flames. ;)

  • Like 1

Mechanic himself suggested just wait till i come back in for the service and will have the car on the hoist - would you consider this important enough to move forward?

Are you talking about the intank filter or the one in the engine bay?

If in the bay, rip it off and slap in a new one. Cheap insurance.

Ryco Z200 and no naked Flames. ;)

Just the engine bay one - will start lobbying mechanically minded friends to help, otherwise Taki (my mechanic at Perfect Run) does it for $90, which i'm happy to pay

  • Like 1

Just the engine bay one - will start lobbying mechanically minded friends to help, otherwise Taki (my mechanic at Perfect Run) does it for $90, which i'm happy to pay

90 to change a fuel filter, your getting ripped hard.takes 10 mins to do. :-)

easy DIY to replace the engine bay fuel filter. Was one of my first maintenance jobs, and im not very mechanically hands-on. Only annoying thing was getting the hoses off the filter, but it eventally came off with enough force lol.

Alright gents, you've encouraged me to give it a crack. I feel comfortable knowing that if i do f**k everything up, at least only the engine will die, and i most likely wont :thumbsup:

Edited by Lolrick

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