Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You will definetly get 400rwkws out of the upgraded low mounts (2530, T517Z, AX's), but you would be running a sh!t load of boost... Might wanna have a forged bottom end too to handle this kind of boost and power...

Otherwise big single (T78), or twin high mounts (TD06's) should do the job with ease....

you would really be pushing it for twin lowmounts to make 400rwkw. You want turbo(s) that will still be within peak efficiency to make the desired power output, not ones that have to struggle to achieve it.

So if you still want low mounts maybe twin GT-RS turbos.

personally i would do a HKS T04Z or T04R cutback, or a T-78 29D.

again i must stress that its not just turbos that make power. All the ancilliary equipment needs to be there.

Guest two.06l
what turbo/s would you guys go for to reach ~400KW@W from an RB26

just after peoples opinions

thanks guys

we are making 390awkw out of a hks 2530 kit and thats with pump fuel .boost is 25psi.but you have to remember this is using the full kit not just a turbo upgrade.its for sale if you are interested pm me for details

we are making 390awkw out of a hks 2530 kit and thats with pump fuel .boost is 25psi.but you have to remember this is using the full kit not just a turbo upgrade.its for sale if you are interested pm me for details

What do you mean "full kit" not just the turbo upgrade? And are you still running stock internals?

Guest two.06l
two.06l, was that using stock internals, and pump fuel? I didn't think manifolds made much of a diff on the GTR...

full house engine and head ,also camshaft selection is important with low mount upgrades. i only ever use mobil synergy with nulon pro strength booster ,it has more than proven its worth.also have you seen the difference in the hks manifolds to stock even the naked eye can see the diff. in their ability to flow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...