Rb25 Vtc Delete Timing Questions

[ZzZleeper]

Alright, so i have an RB25 S1 that im having some struggles with! I have it swapped into a Z32, and i cant seem to get it fired up and no one really has any ideas for me. I figured i would try here as well.

So the Rb25 had quite a bit of work done to it before i bought it, and ive never been completely sure what it was exactly he did. The VTC has been deleted, and it has HKS cams installed, along with some adjustable cam gears that no one can i identify correctly. From the research ive been able to do, its seems they are most likely to be 264 IN and 264 EX but im not completely sure on that. It also has forged pistons, and 155psi on all 6 cylinders.

Here's what i've done to it myself,

Freddy plenum

Topfeed rail

660cc Bosch high impedance injectors

Full 6AN fuel lines

Adj FPR

12g Fuel cell

340 Inline pump

Yellow Jacket coils

NGK Iridium

Wiring Specialties standalone EFI harness

Apexi PFC with datalogit

So, I am not getting this thing to start and it is very frustrating. The car will crank over, but wont actually start. Ive pulled the CAS out with ignition on, and spun it. I can hear the injectors pulse in all 6. And pulled the plugs, and its getting great spark as well. The fuel rail is getting 35lbs. Ive also checked and double checked that the FPR is on the return line after the rail, which it is. Ive used 3 different CAS's out of my other Z32's that are in perfect working condition, and no change. I have also checked the timing, All of the marks seem to line up perfectly. Only issue is that on the Intake Cam, its seems it may have slight adjustment on it in the Cam gears but i am not sure. If i have the CAS adjusted to the left it will just crank and nothing at all. If i adjust it to the right, the car seems to try and start on itself. It gets little compression backfire out of the intake manifold.

So, how can i set the cams to the stock timing with out knowing where its at now? Or do you have any suggestions of anything else i should be looking at? I've gone over everything i can think of, so any help with be greatly appreciated!

Here's a couple pics for some reference,

Here's a pic of the Adj cam gears. Notice how on the Intake cam, it seems to have slight counter clockwise adjustment to it, where the Exhaust side is perfectly centered.

Here's some pics when i first got it, i dont know a lot about camshafts, but these lobes seem to be pretty aggressive.

Heres a pic with the pan off. Cant seem to tell what brand of pistons.

It also came with a Turbonetics 60-1, And a SARD 50mm wastegate. Does anyone have any ideas on what this exhaust manifold could be? Its looks like a quality piece, but i cant seem to find anything similar to it.

Here's the clutch it cam with. I can tell its an OS Giken twin disc but have no idea on the model of it

And heres just a few pics of the car.

[Guilt-Toy]

nice project mate.

for a setup like this, and it will save you alot of hassle, i would remove the power fc, and sell it. then purchase a nice link g4 or a haltech ps1000 / ps2000 and wire harness and wire up the whole car nice and neat, it will save you alot of hassle in the long run imho.

if this is not an option, (can see you are in the usa maybe a AEM will be better for you) its not a engine problem that the car won't start, it has to be something with the ecu relays or fuel pump not starting... could be a mission to get it right.

do you have a hand controller? does it turn on ? can you see a rpm signal when trying to start???

good luck

[niZmO_Man]

That exhaust manifold might be HKS.

The Autech/R31House ones are higher.

[Badgaz]

Check to make sure your plugs get wet on cranking... the injectors if they have been sitting for a while can fowl up....i had this with my 850cc ones.

[Guilt-Toy]

That exhaust manifold might be HKS.

The Autech/R31House ones are higher.

it could be too... HKS.. it uses the 4 bolt hks wastegate flange too.

[ZzZleeper]

nice project mate.

for a setup like this, and it will save you alot of hassle, i would remove the power fc, and sell it. then purchase a nice link g4 or a haltech ps1000 / ps2000 and wire harness and wire up the whole car nice and neat, it will save you alot of hassle in the long run imho.

if this is not an option, (can see you are in the usa maybe a AEM will be better for you) its not a engine problem that the car won't start, it has to be something with the ecu relays or fuel pump not starting... could be a mission to get it right.

do you have a hand controller? does it turn on ? can you see a rpm signal when trying to start???

good luck

Thanks for the quick responses guys!

I would love to go with a Haltech setuo or even AEM but at the moment its just nit an option financially.

Also, I have the fuel pump hardwired to a toggle switch, so I know that is working. I do have the hand held monitor and it shows I believe around 400 or so RPMs while cranking. It also shows the injectors duty cycle at about 1.5 while cranking.

It had some Tomei 600cc injectors on it when I first got it. I thought they were my problem at first seeing as they say for 2 years. So 3 weeks ago I replaced them with the Bosch 660cc injectors which are new. So now that rules that out. I pulled the plug a minute or two after cranking, and it smelt like gas, but it was not completely wet with gas.

[Guilt-Toy]

take number one coil out, then you need to get a old spark plug that you know works, and connect it inside the coil, make sure the coil is still wired into the coil loom.

situate the end of the spark plug to a place where it can earth, usually the cam cover will do if its not painted... then crank the engine and make sure that you can see a spark on the spark plug.

also make sure the engine HAS A GOOD EARTH. without a good earth shits going to go south big time... (yes you want to go north lol)

DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS ANYWHERE NEAR THE END OF THE SPARK PLUG WHEN CRANKING.

you have been warned! it hurts. if you do get hurt though thats a good thing... means you got spark .. hahahaaa

if there is no spark then now at least you know why it wont fire. and you know what the issue is and we can move one step further in the right direction... yep thats north lol

[ZzZleeper]

take number one coil out, then you need to get a old spark plug that you know works, and connect it inside the coil, make sure the coil is still wired into the coil loom.

situate the end of the spark plug to a place where it can earth, usually the cam cover will do if its not painted... then crank the engine and make sure that you can see a spark on the spark plug.

also make sure the engine HAS A GOOD EARTH. without a good earth shits going to go south big time... (yes you want to go north lol)

DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS ANYWHERE NEAR THE END OF THE SPARK PLUG WHEN CRANKING.

you have been warned! it hurts. if you do get hurt though thats a good thing... means you got spark .. hahahaaa

if there is no spark then now at least you know why it wont fire. and you know what the issue is and we can move one step further in the right direction... yep thats north lol

Haha well I have gone over this process and got shocked a little as well. Its getting great spark! The arc from plug 1 jumped about 2in to ground with the valve covers. Ive also doulbe checked all my grounds. I even purchesed a central grounding kit.

So if the injectors are new and set correctly in the pfc, and they are pulsing when the CAS spins, and the fuel rail has 35psi in it, what would cause the injectors not to fire if anything? If thats not the issue then I dont know what else would do it besides the timing.

[KiwiRS4T]

Have a read of this:

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/116_0701_how_to_degree_a_camshaft/

I'm no expert but luckily have plenty of expertise available locally. If you haven't maybe you need to become one!

Tip for CAS timing put a lead between the coil and no 1 plug and time off that.