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Hey been googling and finding people on this site talking about running e10 and even e85! Im running mine bp ultimate and its costing a fortune, i use it in my Saab cause i know it has its own wifinary trucks and station tanks, so no mix ups..

but damn!! The stagea chews juice. Is it okay to run it on something else cheaper and more fuel efficient, or can i make my car more fuel efficient?

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Being Japanese you must run 98 or higher unless you go get it tuned for something different.

E85 will chew a lot more fuel but ill get more powerz if you have it tuned. It will also require a bigger fuel pump and bigger injectors.

These cars are a big heavy car with a small 6 cyl turbo. they will never be good on fuel.

  • Like 1

My stagea has some stickers on the vehicle added by whoever imported/complied the vehicle. It states to use 95-96 RON fuel.

I wouldn't automatically treat it as an authoritative source. Its oil change interval is stated to be 5000km, whereas the nissan manual states 10,000km.

Ive always run more boost than stock, so I just used 98 as a default since I dont particularly wish to go searching for limits....

Due to boost control issues, Ive had a few major overboosts. Luckily no damage that I know of ever occured. Did high octane fuel save my behind in that case? Can't say, but it helps your chances.

  • Like 1

The difference between 91 and 98 is usually about 15 cents. That's $9 a tank. From my experience I get almost 10% better fuel economy out of 98 as I do 91, so lets say 40ks more per tank. That's about 7L of fuel, which is $10.50 worth at $1.50/L.

Let's be conservative and say you get 5% better fuel economy, that's 3.5L (over around 400-450ks [ie. roughly a tank]) which is $5.25. So the difference between 91 and 98 is around $4 per tank. If $4 per tank is meaningful, then you're driving the wrong car.

I would NEVER run 95 in any vehicle I own. The reason for this is no one uses it so it's usually been sitting in the tanks at the servo for a long time. For proof, have a look at the lifetime delivery amount on the bowser next time you go. It'll be something like this:

91 - 1,500,000

95 - 125,000

98 - 750,000

United100 is good stuff. That's what I run. My car loves it and is a little more efficient on it than 98.

TBH if you are at all concerned about fuel usage you are driving the wrong car. A Stag is 1650+kgs with a turbo 6 and in most cases an auto. It's a recipe for big fuel bills. If running cost is an issue, but your losses and sell the thing cause it's never going to be considerably better.

  • Like 2

The difference between 91 and 98 is usually about 15 cents. That's $9 a tank. From my experience I get almost 10% better fuel economy out of 98 as I do 91, so lets say 40ks more per tank. That's about 7L of fuel, which is $10.50 worth at $1.50/L.

Let's be conservative and say you get 5% better fuel economy, that's 3.5L (over around 400-450ks [ie. roughly a tank]) which is $5.25. So the difference between 91 and 98 is around $4 per tank. If $4 per tank is meaningful, then you're driving the wrong car.

I would NEVER run 95 in any vehicle I own. The reason for this is no one uses it so it's usually been sitting in the tanks at the servo for a long time. For proof, have a look at the lifetime delivery amount on the bowser next time you go. It'll be something like this:

91 - 1,500,000

95 - 125,000

98 - 750,000

United100 is good stuff. That's what I run. My car loves it and is a little more efficient on it than 98.

TBH if you are at all concerned about fuel usage you are driving the wrong car. A Stag is 1650+kgs with a turbo 6 and in most cases an auto. It's a recipe for big fuel bills. If running cost is an issue, but your losses and sell the thing cause it's never going to be considerably better.

Well written post.

Nice one, but some people will still never get it!

Though interestingly there doesn't appear to be much reported difference in fuel consumption between manuals and autos.

Also, they are still comparable to most modern vehicles, even when factoring their age. For country highway driving, I used to get a consistent 9.8L/100km in a 2010ish ford falcon, recently Ive measured 9.6L/100km on the same run in a VE commodore wagon, and thats the small V6.

I can get sub 12L/100km on the same run in the stagea, which is 17 years older and has 4WD.

The trick I find is to use the turbo and not feel guilty about it :/

  • Like 1

Hey hey don't need to make me sound like dumbarse!! @superben Bit un called for lol just asking the question. I heard that the s2 are more efficient, in the way i asked was to see if there are ways to upgrade the s1 to be more efficient, so obviously you cant. Our turbo diesel nivara gets more kms with the caravan on the back of it, so yeah I think it was a reasonable question, as most cars have chips or re mapping in place to get more power and better efficiency. All good anyways.

Its going back to Race Pace soon and there getting new coil overs designed specially for Stageas which apparently will sh$t all over the BC and SLIDE ones, so ill get them on the car and ill see if its possible for any sort of re mapping or get a s2 head on it or something.

Edited by st@gea

If you have an auto S1 the only way you can tune it is to piggy back something on to the OEM ecu such as a Greddy E-Manage or if you're rich a Link or Vipec. You haven't said what your fuel consumption is. I get 12L per 100km if I am careful... or can get 10L per 100km on a long trip if I aim for economy or 15 or 20L or worse if I boot it hard.

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It was around 380kms to a full tank. Sweet I'll sus out the piggy backs. Its just that I sold my wife's corolla and bought her this stagea for the boot space for pram and shopping, she loved it when we had a look and I have always liked them but literally I reckon the corolla would of flogged it lol. So im now thinking if its going to be a guzzler I may as well just make it have a bit of power

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