Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,


Stripping a R32 GTR which has been involved in an accident

Body is no good, other than that its a complete car!


Some parts to look out for are:

- R34 GTR Vspec II engine, custom 9L sump setup

- Nistune R32 to R34 ECU

- Tomei cluster

- Bilstein suspension

- ORC twin plate

These may not be listed as part is still to come off


ALL prices are nego.



All prices, pictures and information here.

Will continually update link above


Any other questions or parts you are after just PM me


Cheers

Link seems to be working for some, not for others. Im using IE, maybe try another browser otherwise PM me your number and I can send

Prices, description all in link. Click the picture!!!

Is the car Jet Silver or Spark Silver?

Is it 1989-1991 or 1992-1994? That will tell me.....

Where abouts are you?

Thanks......

Yes apparently aftermarket dumps and fronts, Apexi N1 exhaust

Stock manifold and turbos

Not sure on the colour.. is it a code? Its silver haha

Will let you know about year of car

Im in Perth WA

Ok...... Thanks for that.

Mine is Sparkling Silver which was introduced after August 1991.

Jet Silver was the original Silver from August 1989 till August 1991.

Cheers,

Bob.



New parts added:

- N1 pods and skirts

- Cusco MBC stopper

- Passenger door trims (and other assorted trims and rubbers)

- Radiator silicone hose

- GTR bonnet

- Brake ducts


**Click on pictures for description and pricing**



New items added 30-04-14

- Exhaust, looks japanese brand, 3" with mid muffler and end muffler, some dents in mufflers - $350

- Bilstein suspension, front drivers damaged, rest are very good condition - $200

- Adjustable camber arms, good condition - $200

- HICAS bar, good condition - $200


Price reduction time! Also open to offers on parts

- Stock passenger seat with rail - $200 (was $250)

- Velo seat on s13 rail (apparently) - $450 (was $600)

- GTR boot - $150 (was $200)

- GTR wing - $130 (was $180)

- Tailights - $70ea (was $100)

- Rear wiper and assembly - $30 (was $50)

- GTR 3 gauge cluster - $100 (was $150)

- Headlights - $70ea (was $100)

- ARC box - $300 (was $350)

- GTR radiator and cap - $100 (was $150)

- R34 GTR Vspec engine - $6800 (was $7500)

- N1 front bar and lip - $400 (was $450)

- N1 side skirts - $400 (was $450)

- GTR bonnet - $400 (was $450)

OK any more details on the dumps, front and N1? Or is it the jap 3" you've listed after this post?

I'm looking for something a little bigger preferably.

Yes apparently aftermarket dumps and fronts, Apexi N1 exhaust

Stock manifold and turbos

Not sure on the colour.. is it a code? Its silver haha

Will let you know about year of car

Im in Perth WA

Dumps look stock, but front pipe is 3" RSR stainless steel items

The exhaust is actually around 3.5", but tapers down to 3" when it meets with muffler/flanges

I have the electric window switch, yes it was working

$40 posted

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...