Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I recently bought an old r32, when I got the car it was running fine at 14 psi, but the turbo seals where gone on turbo and used to blow a little smoke under load, so I swapped it with and rb25 turbo, and this is where my trouble begins, if I run the factory 7 psi the car runs perfect all the way up to redline, but I want a bit more than 7 psi, so I put the old 14 psi actuator on the new turbo, and soon as it goes above 7ps in any gear the wholes car just kind of, shakes/stutters/hesitates quiet violently back and forth.

I disconnected the line to the actuator, so now the only thing controlling the boost should be my foot on the throttle, but same thing happens, soon as I go over 7 psi the whole car, shakes/stutters, and you cant get past this point, ie, can rev any higher/gain speed, until you change gear.

things I have tried.

-different actuators

-different turbo

- gapped plugs

-checked coil packs (they look fine to me, but might try tape them)

-changed fuel filter

-check led on ecu no fault codes

-cleaned afm with contact cleaner

checked for boost/vacuum leaks (I am sure there is no boost leaks as I can see boost from about 2.2k rpm

should be getting a consult cable this week so hopefully that will shed some light, just want some more ideas on where to look, what to look for, what would limit boost ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442672-boost-issue/
Share on other sites

you're essentially using an aftermarket turbo. it will flow more air for the same boost level seeing as it is 'bigger'. to get the car able to drive well you need aftermarket tuning.

now you can probably get away with most of the factory bits already on your car but for peace of mind I'd install a fuel pump, Walbro GSS341 ($100) and go for a nistune ECU and tune (roughly $1,200 all up).

This will allow you to boost up to around 15 or so psi on the RB25 turbo and the car will run nicely.

The cheaper option is to install another RB20 turbo and go back to where you started.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442672-boost-issue/#findComment-7273091
Share on other sites

So you stuck a much larger turbo on, untuned, and you wonder why the ecu is trying to protect itself?

Perhaps it should just let you melt the pistons...

Both turbos are rb25, same turbo it ran 14 psi perfectly fine before, it has nistune type 2 board, which has be tuned not long ago.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442672-boost-issue/#findComment-7273108
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...