Putting Gtr Track Setup Back To Stock

[GTSBoy]

I was not born in the computer generation ,sorry,Thanks Greypearl.

Um.....it's the computer generation we usually have the most trouble with not being able to form readable prose.

The rules for written language are quite simple.

1) Have an idea you need to convey.

2) Put together words to convey that idea. Use just enough words to correctly convey that idea, then put in a full stop. If one sentence won't cover the whole idea, then start again with a new sentence for the next part of the idea.

3) If you have multiple ideas to convey, repeat the above for the next idea and so on.

4) For breaking up major different ideas, press the enter key a couple of times so you get a new paragraph.

Also, numbered lists like I have used above can be convenient ways for people to address individual points you are raising. They can refer to your numbered points. It's great.

[Robert Knight]

Thanks GTSBOY so simple when you know how

1) Need to know which are best and why BC'S or Bilsteins.

2) Bear In mind that my car will probably never see the track.

3) Cost is a factor,Cheers Greypearl.

Edited May 11, 2014 by Robert Knight

[Robert Knight]

Also off topic but I used to get notifications in my email when someone makes a post to my topic but now I don't how can I turn that feature back on,Greypearl.

[XKLABA]

Street only, then Bilstiens and Eiback or Whiteline springs, its what I have in my 32 GTR and are quite nice to drive day to day

[KiwiRS4T]

If you want some help making a decision go to the top of this page to the "pinned" topics and read " shockabsorbers 101" by SK.

SK has designed suspension set ups for Skylines and Stageas and I have followed his plans for my Stagea :

Bilstein shocks front and rear (but with Tein springs - missed out on the group buy) and heavy duty anti-roll bars.

I also have adjustable castor and camber arms but set fairly conservatively for the street. I ran 3 deg neg camber at the front and 1.5 deg at the back with my slicks which was great on the track but chewed out my street tyres so I toned it down a little to 1.5 deg front and rear. Tyre wear has gone down but my heavy wagon still handles pretty well on the road.

[Robert Knight]

Cheers for the replies guys guess this thread has done it's dash,Greypearl.

[Sydneykid]

After maximising the caster (we can never have too much caster on an R32/33/34) I would have gone for 1.0 to 1.5 degrees negative camber on the front and 0.75 to 1.25 degrees negative on the rear. R33GTR are predominantly understeerers due to the ATESSA calibration and HICAS programming, so I also find around 2 mm toe out each side, front and rear, to be beneficial.

Having sorted the wheel alignment the choice of dampers is a pretty simple one, I have found Bilstein work well on R32/33/34's due to their sophisticate valving. There's about 300 or so kits utilising Bilsteins in Skylines, Stageas and Silvias running around from the old Group Buy days and the guys seem pretty happy with them. Depending on the budget non adjustable, single adjustable with or without remote canisters or triple adjustable with remote canisters.

For non adjustable I'd suggest Kings springs (Lows NOT SuperLows) as Redranger in their infinite wisdom discontinued all Whiteline springs. The Bilsteins I do have my valving specs and come with additional circlip grooves so the cars ride height can be selected prior to fitting them. For R33GTR's I never go lower than 355 mm on the front and 345 mm on the rear (centre of wheel to guard as usual) as the ride deteriorates and the suspension geometry is not designed to operate at lower than height.

If finite on car height adjustment is desired then Eibach are the best spring choice. They require the addition of what we call "coil over conversion kits" to the Bilsteins.

Always remember that swaybars are by far the best value handling upgrade, road or track. You have my email address if you want to discuss.

Hope that helps

Cheers

Gary