Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So after years of searching I am finally a 1999 GTR R34 V Spec owner. I still remember when I first saw the R32 as a kid, also remember asking Dad to buy the R34 GTR as a family car! This GTR R34 is my second Nissan after the Infiniti G35 Coupe 6 MT which is the V35 350GT.

So I have checked out at least a dozens of GTR R34, although this is not a perfect example in my book but it is the best one I have seen. This car has many mods on it some good some bad, but it is definitely a good car to start a build with! I am still new to the RB26, please feel free to make any suggestions!

Here is the current mod list:
Engine:
- N1 Block
- HKS GT-SS
- Jun cam 272 in/ex
- HKS 1.2mm metal head gasket
- Nismo fuel pump
- HKS fuel rail
- SARD 534CC injectors
- Tomei fuel regulator
- HKS intercooler pipping
- Trust intercooler
- Blitz BOV
- Trust radiator
- Tomei turbo outlets
- 90mm high flow stainless exhaust
- HKS F-con V-pro tuned by JUN (Koyama Tuner in Hong Kong who is retired now) for 1.4bar. auto cut off at 1.5bar.
- Trust profec B
- Trust turbo timer
- Nismo super copper mix clutch (700hp)
Handling:
- Brembo 6 pot Mono block 355mm GT brake kit
- Mine's Ohlin's shocks and springs
- Nismo sway bars front and rear
- Cusco control arms front and rear
Exterior:
- Nismo Replica Body Kit
- JUN Rear Spoiler Stand
Interior:
- Nismo White Speedo
- Nismo MFD

post-112082-0-28677300-1399908333_thumb.jpg

post-112082-0-29427200-1399908345_thumb.jpg

post-112082-0-63970500-1399908393_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443066-finally-a-gtr-r34-owner/
Share on other sites

Looks awesome mate, the white Regamasters definitely set it off.

Where are from? Judging by the huge license plate somewhere in the EU?

:thumbsup:

Thanks mate!

I'm located in Hong Kong! Not too far from Australia. Yes we do use the UK style plates here since we are ex British Colony.

I actually didn't know those are called Regamaster.

I'm looking to replace a few things in the near future, such as:

Haltech

800cc injectors

OEM DV

Mine's or Tomei Exhaust

Mine's Front Pipe

Nismo LM-GT4 or TE37

I need suggestions to start this build!

Edited by etang789
  • 4 weeks later...

Finally removed that stupid looking Essential Vent to Air Oil Catch Can and replaced with a new stock washer fluid bottle, a new rear washer fluid motor, and a new OEM PCV Hoses.

Old Engine Bay when I first got the car

post-112082-0-37902900-1401945050_thumb.jpg

Current Engine Bay

post-112082-0-47741500-1401944769_thumb.jpg

Edited by etang789

The stock set up will be alto better than thermo's.

If its a modified engine then you may want to look at running a nismo or similar oil air separator.

The stock setup is already not enough for where I live, there is this local garage that had installed an extra electric fan that pushes air from the front of the radiator already. To clean up the mess, I think switching to 2 pull electric fan is the better solution.

Yes I am looking into getting Radium Engineering Catch Can, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/443367-radium-engineering-oil-catch-can/

If we can do track days when it's 30 degrees with the standard fan and shroud then I wouldn't think you'd have an issue.

What are your temp issues at the moment?

its like 30-40 degrees here and very humid... I only see temp issue when in traffic or slow traffic up the hills, since hills are everywhere in Hong Kong. With the added electric fan up front now basically its always on when in traffic but MFD still shows a few degrees over the cruising speed.

BTW what does your temp gauge in the speedo show when cruising? Mine is slightly above the middle mark

its like 30-40 degrees here and very humid... I only see temp issue when in traffic or slow traffic up the hills, since hills are everywhere in Hong Kong. With the added electric fan up front now basically its always on when in traffic but MFD still shows a few degrees over the cruising speed.

BTW what does your temp gauge in the speedo show when cruising? Mine is slightly above the middle mark

I guess the humidity wouldn't help. My gauge always sits in the middle but the gauge on the dash is very vague. My water temp gauge sits anywhere between 75 and 85 degrees depending on what I'm doing.

its like 30-40 degrees here and very humid... I only see temp issue when in traffic or slow traffic up the hills, since hills are everywhere in Hong Kong. With the added electric fan up front now basically its always on when in traffic but MFD still shows a few degrees over the cruising speed.

BTW what does your temp gauge in the speedo show when cruising? Mine is slightly above the middle mark

I bet (as long as everything else is in good working condition) if you put a stock shroud on, your coolant temps would improve 'in traffic or slow traffic'. Additionally, if you have an N1 water pump, then that isn't going to help at low speed either.

  • 2 weeks later...

So after years of searching I am finally a 1999 GTR R34 V Spec owner. I still remember when I first saw the R32 as a kid, also remember asking Dad to buy the R34 GTR as a family car! This GTR R34 is my second Nissan after the Infiniti G35 Coupe 6 MT which is the V35 350GT.

So I have checked out at least a dozens of GTR R34, although this is not a perfect example in my book but it is the best one I have seen. This car has many mods on it some good some bad, but it is definitely a good car to start a build with! I am still new to the RB26, please feel free to make any suggestions!

Here is the current mod list:
Engine:
- N1 Block
- HKS GT-SS
- Jun cam 272 in/ex
- HKS 1.2mm metal head gasket
- Nismo fuel pump
- HKS fuel rail
- SARD 534CC injectors
- Tomei fuel regulator
- HKS intercooler pipping
- Trust intercooler
- Blitz BOV
- Trust radiator
- Tomei turbo outlets
- 90mm high flow stainless exhaust
- HKS F-con V-pro tuned by JUN (Koyama Tuner in Hong Kong who is retired now) for 1.4bar. auto cut off at 1.5bar.
- Trust profec B
- Trust turbo timer
- Nismo super copper mix clutch (700hp)
Handling:
- Brembo 6 pot Mono block 355mm GT brake kit
- Mine's Ohlin's shocks and springs
- Nismo sway bars front and rear
- Cusco control arms front and rear
Exterior:
- Nismo Replica Body Kit
- JUN Rear Spoiler Stand
Interior:
- Nismo White Speedo
- Nismo MFD

LOVE the car , I have the same cars as you, the 350GT Skyline added Twin Turbos and now a Black R34GTR and about to put the RB30 Block and Nitto 3.2Lt stroker kit in, should be a fun car. Add the Advan RS-D machine/gloss black rims and all done.

post-52098-0-94182100-1403070328_thumb.jpg

post-52098-0-79504700-1403070608_thumb.jpg

Here is my ex Nissan, Infiniti G35 aka 350GT Skyline

attachicon.gifIMG_0186.jpg

Never seen a white one, I think I would like my R34 to be a lighter colour as it gets hot very quickly in the sun, as do most cars but black is the worst I have owed , black yuk but looks so great cleaned, trouble is they even get dirty in the garage so I made a cover so I can easily put it on and off, photo , works a treat.

Both fun cars to drive, it will be interesting to see how my new work goes on the R34GTR

post-52098-0-17554700-1403204283_thumb.jpg

Finally ditched my old exhaust and installed Mine's Front Pipe Pro and Mine's Slience-VX Pro Titan III and Venom 100Cell 5" Body High Flow Catalytic Converter

Much more civilized sound didn't get to redline it yet, still waiting for a proper tune before I can blast this exhaust in the tunnels!

post-112082-0-30162200-1403791999_thumb.jpg

post-112082-0-60691200-1403792002_thumb.jpg

post-112082-0-78486700-1403792026_thumb.jpg

post-112082-0-92065500-1403792032_thumb.jpg

post-112082-0-42519600-1403792039_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...