Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i want 600 hp to the wheels. By today's standards that's not much. I do all my own work from home. After I was given a r32 gtr I found out the car was totally rotten, so I pull the motor and installed it in a gts4 I had. Made my own down pipes and did the work with a close friend of mine.

After all was install in short the motor only lasted like 15 minutes before the bearing where all mest up. After I pulled the whole engine down. I noticed that this motor had HKS 272 with stock lift cams in it. It was fully stock but for those cams. Internally speaking here.

So we pulled it out and made a list of parts that we will need. Over here in the states nissan cranks has been on back order for that last 6 months. It's now here so I went ahead and ordered an oversized sump from racefab. Rod will have it out to me soon. I'm looking forwards to that.

In addition I got a 1.1mm Tomie oil restrictor and a head drain along with a tomie oil pump. Along with a long with rods and pistons ACL bearings main and head studs MLS head gasket and a new nismo n1 crankshaft along with a new cylinder head a set of valve seals cam seals with rear main seal supertec valve springs and titanium retainers.

As for the head it was fun reading up on what I needed to do and doing it. I did all the head milling myself. I didn't open up any of the ports I just cleaned the up. The ridges that was left over from machining the valve seats. In short I made it all have one smooth flowing surface to reduce turbulence on the back of the valves. Next was the one mod the i was torn over should the humps in the exhaust port go or stay. I made my mind up measure the thickness if it was removed on the old head first. I found that it's the same size as the everywhere else and went ahead and took them out. This was mainly after I read an article about rb26 head mods and if using aftermarket turbo manifolds they recommend taking those out.

I'm using all stock valves and slap seat them myself. I took measurements for shiming the lifters and new to make some adjustments. One of my big concerns is my HKS cams. They are 272 with stock lift. I feel these cams are to big and from what I've read on this forum no one really got good results using cams. Well at lest for what I want to do.

So now that you know a little bit about my build this is what I intend on do with the car.

Drag racing it that's it. Home and track. Never what to drive it on the road or nothing. I was told it a good set up because it's in a gts4's body and the diffs are going to favor the gtr gear box. Somthing about being shorter. ??

In the future I'm planning on replacing both front and rear diffs.

Thanks mate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443269-my-rb26-build/#findComment-7286243
Share on other sites

Front and rear diffs on GTS-4 are 4.3 (as opposed to GTR 4.1)so may be better for dragging. You may benefit from a LSd centre for the front - don't really know much about drag racing. Have a read of the "over 400kw" thread for some more ideas. There is a trend to single turbos (especially for drag racing) so have a read of the borg warner and precision threads. I got the impression 272 cams were good for drag racing but not much else but I would have thought they would have more than stock lift. How much lift do you have? Assuming you are going to run on pump petrol you will need at least ID750 injectors or better. Plus a surge tank and some decent pumps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443269-my-rb26-build/#findComment-7286326
Share on other sites

Thanks mate.

I was planning on doing that as well. It's been a while but now my oil pan is on the way and the crank just arrived. I'm ready for the actual build. I'm planning on running 850cc injectors from sard and I'm using the D Jetro PFC. I can't remember but it's the one with map sensors. I'm planning on running NOS. Do you know what would be the best piston ring gap for that in standard bore and forged CP pistons.??? I'm hoping it will be listed in the spec sheet of the pistons.

I'm also planning on running a 1500hp external fuel pump just cause I have it.

You mention center diff. Sorry but I don't know notjing about that. Does that go in the gear box?????. And as for the cams it's hks 272 at stock rb26 lifts, but I really think they will hurt my power numbers vs. The stock ones. I feel old if my hp goals were over 1000hp is when it would help. I've heard to much about cams being the cause of people losing hp.

Thanks for your help mate. Any one else.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443269-my-rb26-build/#findComment-7288291
Share on other sites

I didn't say centre diff I'm talking about a LSD centre for the FRONT diff - Quaife are popular although there is probably a Nismo, Kaaz, or Cusco unit to suit.

If you haven't already got the Sards ID injectors from the US or Australia will probably be a cheaper and better option.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443269-my-rb26-build/#findComment-7288358
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...