Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good afternoon SAU,

I was driving to the shops this morning and the following happened -

  • The HICAS light came on and off (sort of flickering)
  • All tachos were bouncing when the above occurred
  • There was no power steering when I entered into 1 of the turns
  • The car stalled twice (once when entering a round-a-bout and when entering the car park)

However, the above did not occur permanently but was on and off. I managed to get home and performed the following -

  • I disconnected the leads from the battery and re-plugged it to try and reset the ECU.
  • I tried to perform a HICAS Diagnostic as per the link below but didn't quite understand it:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/22193-hicas-diagnostic/

After doing all this, I took the car for a 2 minute drive and everything felt normal.

I'm still a bit worried though as it is quite dangerous driving a car that could stall any time.

I've been speaking with 'johnnilicte' (from this forum) who believes it is an electrical issue.

I was planning to take my car to the mechanic today but he was extremely busy.

Just wondering if anyone on the forum has encountered such issues before OR may roughly know what the issue may be.

Your advice is greatly appreciated!

Regards,

Lewis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443828-r33-gts-t-s1-hicas-issue/
Share on other sites

Yeah thats not purely hicas related. To many odd things happening at once. HICAS will not make the car stall. Sounds like a bad earth to me

So far so good after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery leads (touch wood)...

That's not a very technical solution...

I would actually clean the battery terminals and earth points points rather than hope for the best.

Thanks mate. I'll have a look into it next weekend when I've got some free time.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...