Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

I don't at 14psi don't get me wrong if just wanted to know what other supporting mods I need and this was the tune that came with the car I sold it to a fella who put a bigger front mount on tuned it to this and 6 months later I have brought it back

You need more supporting psi's in the manifold. :P

You can make 300 on your current turbo, your current engine. not sure what your injectors are i think you mentioned 550cc. that might be enough

wind 20psi through the stock motor on that turbo. t66 is massive by today's standard BTW.

I reckon you'll get 300 pretty easy. above 20psi and you want to do some headwork I believe but maybe you can squeeze a bit more boost on the factory valvesprings seeing as the turbo is so big.

You can make 300 on your current turbo, your current engine. not sure what your injectors are i think you mentioned 550cc. that might be enough

wind 20psi through the stock motor on that turbo. t66 is massive by today's standard BTW.

I reckon you'll get 300 pretty easy. above 20psi and you want to do some headwork I believe but maybe you can squeeze a bit more boost on the factory valvesprings seeing as the turbo is so big.

Yeah well it's on a stock exhaust manifold they just pumped the t66 on there and hoped for the best haha but when it comes on boost it comes on hard!

Okay son of rajab son of rajab this is a roller coaster.

Keep your R33 head and slap it on an RB30 bottom end.

Keep your turbo.

Buy X-Spurt 1000cc injectors.

Sell your Power FC and buy a Link/Haltech.

Keep standard intake manifold.

Keep the hot side (turbo side) all the same.

Get it tuned by a REPUTABLE tuner. Run it at 20psi and enjoy obscene amounts of power, who cares what it makes, 300kw is just a number. I guarantee you will be happy with whatever it makes.

This is the best/cheapest/easiest/least f**king about way to do what you want.

while i agree with everything here he can still use the powerfc.

out of those 2. bang for buck GT3076. but look up hypergearturbos.com and they have dyno sheets on RB25's for most of their turbos. for 300kw on P98 internally gated on the factory manifold you could probably do that with the SS2. You can do it with an R34 highflow I think too which is guaranteed direct bolt on + stock looking

TD06

GTX3071

There are plenty of others, but your choices will change my recommendations. External gate and e85 would be the most important upgrades I could suggest you do at the moment.

Do you have access to an e85 pump? Where are you located? Are the police happy to ream you after popping your bonnet? Do you have yearly RWC inspections? etc, etc.

TD06

GTX3071

There are plenty of others, but your choices will change my recommendations. External gate and e85 would be the most important upgrades I could suggest you do at the moment.

Do you have access to an e85 pump? Where are you located? Are the police happy to ream you after popping your bonnet? Do you have yearly RWC inspections? etc, etc.

No e85 on pump no sadly the best we get on pump is 98 and no yearly Rwc and cops are easy going I drove this around on my p's for nearly a year and my rb20 s13 as well not even pulled over

out of those 2. bang for buck GT3076. but look up hypergearturbos.com and they have dyno sheets on RB25's for most of their turbos. for 300kw on P98 internally gated on the factory manifold you could probably do that with the SS2. You can do it with an R34 highflow I think too which is guaranteed direct bolt on + stock looking

I'll jump on and have a look now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...