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Looking at the specs, that amp is badly underpowered.

Per channel into 4 Ohms: 55W RMS x 4 (14.4V at Ƈ% THD+N)

Per channel into 2 Ohms: 85W RMS x 4 (14.4V at Ƈ% THD+N)

Bridged 4 Ohms: 170W RMS x 2 (14.4V at Ƈ% THD+N)

With those speakers, you want 100W RMS @ 4 Ohms per channel (so 2) for the splits, and 300W RMS @ 4 Ohms for the sub. You're better off getting two amps IMO, one mono amp that can supply the sub and either a 2ch for the splits or 4ch (probably better, so you can bridge, or expand to include rear speakers).

If you wire it all up, it'll work fine. But once you start putting load on it, the amp will struggle (things like clipping). Imagine a standard fuel pump supplying fuel to a boosted engine.

Thanks guys. I ended up taking the gamble and hoped the sub and speakers wouldn't clip too "early" (whilst still not very loud); well it plays very loud and to my satisfaction so the gamble did pay off. The sub makes my hair tingle before it will clip so I'm ... happy.

:D

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

the amps probably reaching its full cycle man, id invest in a monoblock for the sub later on when you have the cash, and just run the speakers off the current amp. I sold my amp to a bloke who burnt out two 600watt max 4 channel amps powering 2 subs,they lasted a year but still, im assuming you want it to last for 3-4 years :P.

  • 3 weeks later...

^ What he said. You're literally killing that amp with the draw you're placing on it. That amp isn't enough for the sub. Yes for just the speakers but the sub is badly underpowered connected to that amp. Do yourself a favor and get at least a 400 watt rms monoblock. Make sure it's the right impedance for the sub. You can't just go buying stuff and expect it to work lol. Go take your car to someone who actually knows what they're doing. It'll be worth it.

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