Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

im new to the whole preformance car thing and im about to buy my 1st turbo car (an R32 or a Z32) anywayz i had a look at a 300ZX TT that is realy nice but the guy says the turbos need sealing, i dont know what that means and i dont know howmuch it will cost me, so if anyone with knowledge could help me out that would be tip-top.

Thanx guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44446-sealing-a-turbo/
Share on other sites

Yeah this car is worked... he says that the manifolds have been worked. from just looking at it its got x2 3.5inch exhausts (if that tells u anything) also has 2 blitz blow-off valves he rekons that it puts out 400hp (doubt it though).

Im looking at buying this car depending on the cost of the turbo repairs

Also the clutch is fryed so i didnt test drive it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44446-sealing-a-turbo/#findComment-908628
Share on other sites

Hummmmmmmmmm....

Why does one sell a car that has problems????

Dont u think he would be better off fixing the clutch and turbos and getting a good price for it???

My tip, if you cant even drive it due to a stuffed clutch, then what else is wrong and if it has 400hp how come its so cheap. 400hp cars in general fetch high prices. Also as a first turbo car my suggestion is to get a stock r32 (when i say stock, FMIC, Pod, TT, little bits and pieces wont hurt). Just get one with original computer and motor type... ie RB20det. That way if something goes wrong you can have all of us to help you out....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44446-sealing-a-turbo/#findComment-909028
Share on other sites

Do u know what i mean tho.... like just sounds sus....

Man buy a nice car from a nice person....

Get someting you will be able to afford when it breaks.... Dont make the mistakes i made in the past. I said yeah a 10g car, 4 weeks later it cost $1100 for a new AFM, took then 17 hours of labour to figure it out....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44446-sealing-a-turbo/#findComment-909041
Share on other sites

Blowing_Off

Its just like theyre handing you a dodgy car just so they can save money.Think of it like this would you hand over a farkd poo car when its time to sell?and on top of that expect them to pay top dollar.Get sniffed.:) get a car that yoou can afford.Have you thought of the insurance? for the price you would pay on it for a car with a claimed ''400hp'' per year you could probably have done some awesome mods on a car that you know would be nowhere near as thrashed like the 32 F.E. enquire about it dont go into it without all the facts the money saved can be put to better use imagine it like this when the lady on the other end of the telephone goes thats $5,000 a year "what'' for your insurance and in 3 years your car would be paid off for that a 300zxtt can you see what we are getting at.Most turbo cars are expensive because they are classed as sports cars but you dont want to have to pay for somthing that shoud have been fixed in the first place.BlInG in yo poko mo fofo. :coffee: :bscreen:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44446-sealing-a-turbo/#findComment-909141
Share on other sites

Thanx for the feedback boyz... im gonna take it for a test drive next week the guy says the car will be driveable by then. and when i do test drive it ill come back on this and tell you all about it.

Im hopeing theres nothing else wrong with it coz its everything i was looking for (black with black leather, targa, etc) The 400hp has to be bs, im no expert but i guess for that sort of power the car would need to have a preformance cooler like a front mount or something, and u dont get 400hp just from working the manifolds rite? whats 400hp in Kw anywayz?

Thanx guys ill keep u posted

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44446-sealing-a-turbo/#findComment-909462
Share on other sites

yes i would say so the ammount of air needed to produce 400hp it is greater than what the two stock coolers can cope with.I recon they would come close but they wouldnt be able to be driven hard for long periods of time without a significant increase in inlet temps.

have you got a cam take a pic of the car and engine bay and anything else you think needs addressing and go onto a zed forum with your probs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44446-sealing-a-turbo/#findComment-909492
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...