Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can't remember what brand but a more expensive brand of polish that you can find fairly easily at auto one or repco kind of places first. Did the whole car then a week later did it with that turtle wax stuff which leaves a big pile of silicone on it then a week later did that again. Looked schmick. I'm sure there are more expensive products out there that people swear by but this has worked for me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44562-polishing-black/#findComment-910573
Share on other sites

Don't cut and polish the paint your self.

I had a sherbrook dark green commodore with bad buff/swirl marks from a respray.

I was unable to get them out myself, and the places I did try for some reason it made the paint dullish.

Send it to a detailer, they will get it looking nice.

Then just wash, polish then wax it and it will be kept nice. :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44562-polishing-black/#findComment-911284
Share on other sites

what do people think of 3m cutting compound and waxes?

I don't think very highly of any DIY cutting compound.

(Including Meguiars)

It doesn't take a lot of cutting to break through the clearcoat.

Once you have penetrated the clearcoat, there is no going back.

It looks bloody awful, and you're up for a full respray.

You may think.. "once or twice a year can't hurt"...... but it does.

Over the period of 5 years thats 10 cuts, and bye bye paintwork. :Oops:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44562-polishing-black/#findComment-913242
Share on other sites

I've had a couple of black cars (including my GTR) and have found that in full sunlight, you never seem to completely get rid of the swirling left from polishing / waxing. Turtle wax is bloody hard to apply and remove, but I still believe it is one of the hardest waxes around - lasts forever. I generally will use Turtle once or twice a year, then use a good canauba the rest of the time. I have been using Mothers California Gold cake wax and have found it as good as any. Best way to get rid of the swirls is to wax and buff (by hand) then buff again using a clean polish cloth. If the car is not overly dirty, simply chamois then buff - keeps the waxes lasting longer.

Unless your paintwork is relatively new (ie: with a deep clear coat), then you will be fighting an uphill battle to get it looking perfect (in full sunlight).

Live with the fact that it looks awsome in half light and just bloody good in full sunlight.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44562-polishing-black/#findComment-914089
Share on other sites

So long as your paint has fully cured, you shouldn't have any problems in waxing it.

The wax won't damage the paint at all, and if it has been clear coated, you shouldn't have much swirling. It is preferable to do it by hand as opposed to a machine buff, as this tends to leave more regular marks which are easily seen. As mentioned previously, buff, buff, buff. Use a canauba as this is a much softer wax and easy to polish out. Also it doesn't leave that white residue around badges and trims like some of the other waxes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44562-polishing-black/#findComment-914191
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's almost certainly a reluctor generating an "AC" waveform. No, ECUs don't generally read those - they're usually set up for PWM square wave 0-5v stuff.
    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
×
×
  • Create New...