Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey im new here so dont really know much about this but i was wanting some help, currently got an r32 gtst, fairly standard with the only mods being front mount, pod filter, rb25 turbo and boost controller set at 12psi, dont know how much power its currently making but im wanting to chase more power in the future but nothing crazy, i'd like to keep the responsiveness of the current turbo but run more boost so im guessing i need a better turbo, injectors and a tune, any suggestions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445628-rb20-performance/
Share on other sites

Search button will help you. :whistling:

And begin with the rb20 dyno thread, there is a lot of useful info in it on what to do.

It depends of the country you live in. Some country are much more tolerant than others with modified cars.

Much more boost and you will blow your trubo (if it is stock)

Cost effective option for more KW's with same response

Cam gears, Highflow the Turbo you have, upgrade your injectors, have the ECU nistuned and tuned.

Maybe upgrade your fuel pump and a free'r flowing exhaust if it's stock.

The RB20 dyno thread will give you what people have modified to get the stated power figures and specifics of the upgrades.

Yep they're 444cc but low impedance. You'll also need the resistor box and wire it up.

I chose the deatschwerk injectors as these ones are drop-in.

They're perfectly fine for now albeit noisy.

Idles good at a steady 15 AFR and I have something like 70% duty max @20psi.

Mines were 458cc in average, ranging from 451 to 465cc if my memory serves me right.

If I ever convert to E85 I will pick the 650cc ones.

Highflowing a turbo means replacing compressor and turbine wheel with larger parts with new bush bearing on ball bearing converison. Check with hypergear or kinugawa turbo.

I ran the kinugawa one, but I wouldn't recommand it if you're chasing the responsiveness of a stock turbo. Hypergear should have smaller turbo more suited to your liking.

Edited by R_34

No need for a bigger turbo then, the 25 turbo if healthy can bring you there but no more. At least not safely in the long run.

If you keep the 25 turbo I woul install a FMIC as the 25 compressor wheel is not very efficient.

AFM will be big enough, oem injectors are a tad short to be safe I guess, CA18DET injectors (370cc) with a rb26 resistor will do the job easily, on pump gas at least.

I don't know about the clutch capability. Mine was blown when I got the engine so I upgraded it directly.

i'll probably end up chasing more power in the future anyway and it is my daily so i'd rather not push the 25 turbo too far, so for now injectors, turbo and nistune should get me over 180rwkw, also the previous owner said there was already a heavy duty clutch in there so i should be ok there

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...