Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Loss On Downshifts, Bouncing Idle And Slight Hesitation At Specific Rev Point -R34Gtt


Recommended Posts

Ok I just went out n reduced all the acceleration pump settings in first column by 1.5 ms and increased decay time by 1, didnt make any difference to the bogging down on downshifts under load, sudden throttle input felt sharper I think, or maybe its my mind creating an illusion..

Sorry cant do mate, it wont help anyway, you have to be in car to feel it, and well the map tracer cells jump more than 5-6 cells down when it (bogging down losing power)happens, literally leaps downwards

Edited by rondofj

If it's dropping that hard it could be a mixture of TPS and AFM issues.

You really need a data logit kit connected to it.

There are many variables you need to look at which you're unable to do via the PowerFC controller alone.

Best to bring it back to the tuner or like I recommended get your hands on a data logit kit and post up your logs

haha..thats even harder - to find a datalogit kit for temp use. Only option is take it back to tuner..and get the same excuse that they couldnt find anything wrong/ didnt do anything to car.. you really think TPS could be an issue? - it does show varying voltage with varying pedal pressing, and is always within its usual voltage range..0.4- 4V or something, so thinking its alrite;

As far as I know, the only sensors that affect AF ratios are: CAS, AFM, TPS, O2 sensor, Coolant Temp sensor to ECU, MAP sensor - and probably in that order of importance. Probably in my case with PowerFC as some have said the O2 (switched off) and MAP sensor has almost bugger all effect.

Edited by rondofj

More of this coming this weekend - a more thorough test with a good 25-30psi in - hoping to find some leaks. Stay tuned.. Sorry bloody images got oriented wrong..

post-49401-0-52265100-1407200329_thumb.jpg

post-49401-0-23291200-1407200339_thumb.jpg

Edited by rondofj

considering the jump in cells i'd say either tps or afm. CAS does not directly affect a/f ratios....its governs spark.

its cheap and easy enough to change tps...i'd start there.

another consideration is maf reversion.

another consideration is maf reversion.

Yep - stock BOV is already blocked with a coke can plate to rule that out.. :). Something else I must mention, the idle goes 200rpms higher with the headlights switched off and lower with it switched on - alternator maybe, the belts checked tight enough - not sure if this issue is even relevant but. And TPS voltage is actually 0.41V at idle - might need 0.45V judging by other threads.

All this hunting around for a solution- my problem could even be a bad ground. Something that has been on the back of my mind. Any common ground problem areas/ which areas should I look for?

Edited by rondofj

It can still get reversion with the BOV blocked, when you shut the throttle the air built up by the turbo has to go somewhere and with no where else to go it goes backwards through the turbo to the AFM

That could also be causing and increasing the hesitation between gears

  • Like 1

fuarkkkkkkkkk

how have you wired your Z32?

Did you earth 1x cable to the chassis and 1x earth into the ECU?

If so.. there's one of your problem :)

both earths into the ECU (regardless whatever the interwebs says)

had the same issue with a S15.. each time the headlights were on.. the TP Load would increase as if there was more air going into the motor and AFRs dropped 1/2 a point... turns out with some hardcore googling.. DVS JEZ (legend) suggested to earth both together and into the ECU..

guess what? that solved the issue.

(yes I do tuning for fun).

fuarkkkkkkkkk

how have you wired your Z32?

Did you earth 1x cable to the chassis and 1x earth into the ECU?

Nope both wires joined together and onto ECU as per SAU tutorial. I was actually thinking of wiring one to chasis but decided no go. By bad ground I mean check the earths from ECU, battery and other problem spots, clean metal, sand-papered joints etc. Think I'm goin to perfect my TPS adjustment to 0.45V instead of 0.41V, idle is 200-300rpms higher with O2 feedback off. Do u also have to disconnect the O2 plug, mine isnt?

Disconnect your idle control valve disconnect your TPS disconnect your AAC then adjust the idle screw till its sitting flat bang at the idle prescribed by your PowerFC then plug everything back in

  • Like 1

Put up a new list of everything you have changed and checked. 6 pgs is a lot to read through.

Have you tried a recirc bov just for the hell of it? The symptoms you described. under load in a high gear, then changing to a lower one would make the power loss from over fuelling more pronounced.

It can still get reversion with the BOV blocked, when you shut the throttle the air built up by the turbo has to go somewhere and with no where else to go it goes backwards through the turbo to the AFM

That could also be causing and increasing the hesitation between gears

If you blocked off the bovs after the tune then this advice is spot on. So make a list of what have you changed after the tune would be a good start. I can't believe a tuner would let a car out like this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...