Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Loss On Downshifts, Bouncing Idle And Slight Hesitation At Specific Rev Point -R34Gtt


Recommended Posts

I wouldnt be best placed to comment - hence my posting - waiting for the gurus GTSBoy, Scotty, BadGaz, XKLABA and others...does it (my maps) look alright?

that map looks fine to me, RB25 motors all have that timing "wedge" which then decays as RPM increases

It looks odd to me though, but then again I wouldn't know if its normal as you said..

I wouldnt be best placed to comment - hence my posting - waiting for the gurus GTSBoy, Scotty, BadGaz, XKLABA and others...does it (my maps) look alright?

Is this a tune or log?

Yeah the data looks fine and your shown us all your other fuel corrections..... AFM... Noticed someone is having a sale on afms in the for sale section.

things I've suggested already in previous posts.

  • get a datalogit kit
  • get a wideband
  • produce a log

myself and other members will analyse - looking at the timing map & fuel maps is one thing, but they both look normal to me.

Here's mine for reference (but it's on E85):

post-22311-0-17745500-1408511824_thumb.png

  • Like 1

things I've suggested already in previous posts.

  • get a datalogit kit
  • get a wideband
  • produce a log
myself and other members will analyse - looking at the timing map & fuel maps is one thing, but they both look normal to me.

Here's mine for reference (but it's on E85):

attachicon.gifE85 SS2.png

28 pages of information condensed into one simple action plan...this is all that you need to do before anything else.

I have been monitoring AFM voltages with the commander - idle is always alternating 1190-1250V ish, and I had to switch my afm warning off in powerfc because high rpm/boost runs always bring on the engine light at 4.8V+ in 2nd and 3rd. AFM voltage peaks too much, AFM settings is actually 100% for every voltage readout uptil 5.12V in the afm calibration table.

Datalogit kit is money wasted just to diagnose a problem, I dont even have a laptop haha, will a wideband with gauge just do? Johnny I wana borrow your AFM for 30mins on the weekend lol

saturday arvo works - you will owe me a 6 pack of James Squire or so

another easier way, buy an ECU that uses a MAP sensor.. you won't have these AFM issues and reversion issues

I found that 'wedge' on the timing map is because of the two timing values 30 on the N20 cell highlighted here (highest rpm/ lowest load). I can smooth that out- dunno why they left such a big jump but I doubt that will make the map any 'better' - when does anyone ever reach redline at min load?

post-49401-0-21420000-1408515579_thumb.jpg

when does anyone ever reach redline at min load?

Overrun/overrev on downshift.

Also, and by the way, when you say "wedge" do you mean the ridge of high timing running along the top, or do you mean the little dip right at the end closest to the viewer?

Not exactly a map tracer but this table shows where my map tracer cells roughly are during a normal drive(top yellow blob) and then downshifting (bottom blob) this is where they go and the car becomes an ass for 4-5 seconds...

Edit - I would probably move that second blob 3 cells down - thats more where it goes to.

post-49401-0-58072100-1408516175_thumb.jpg

Edited by rondofj

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
×
×
  • Create New...