Jump to content
SAU Community

Hsd Coilovers Help

suwidji
 Share

Recommended Posts

suwidji Experienced

suwidji

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys,

I hit up streettotrack.com about BC BR coilovers (for r34 gtt) but they no longer stock them and have recommended the HSD DT coilovers.

Can someone shed some light on these, preferrably those who are using/have used them, as I'm not too familiar with them.

Are they good for street/track use and are they equivalent to the BC BR's?

Edited by suwidji
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446375-hsd-coilovers-help/
Share on other sites
Scott Black Rising Star

Scott Black

Posted
Posted

ive got a set for my 180sx with an rb25 yet dont know how they go as yet to install, yet the dualtech series are a twin tube shock istead on monotube, ment to be a less harsh ride on the road, yet less suited for track use. hsd also do a more expensive monotube shock (the dts retail around the 1k mark, or for about 1.3k the monotube hsd) you can also get them from wholesale suspention, who would be happy to talk to you about the differences.

AMR33 Mentor

AMR33

Posted
Posted

Had some adjustable HSDs on S13 Silvia a few years back. Can be harsh (as in stiff) on road but I found them to be quite good. HSD is a relatively well known brand in the field. I think HSD equivalent to whatever BC set you were going to by will be just as good if not better.

My 2c

Cheers

Amir

sweefu Mentor

sweefu

Posted
Posted

Had some adjustable HSDs on S13 Silvia a few years back. Can be harsh (as in stiff) on road but I found them to be quite good. HSD is a relatively well known brand in the field. I think HSD equivalent to whatever BC set you were going to by will be just as good if not better.

My 2c

Cheers

Amir

The DT (as above, twin tube) should be less harsh than the monotube dampers, from my experience the monotubes are quite harshly valved and perform much better on the track than street.

  • 2 weeks later...
LTHLRB Grand Master

LTHLRB

Posted
Posted

ISC coilovers are a good bang for buck set. you can also choose your own spring rates when ordering. i have 8/6kg springs in the r33 and its a pretty sweet ride considering how the car goes full noise on the race track, street driving isnt harsh at all

AMR33 Mentor

AMR33

Posted
Posted

ISC coilovers are a good bang for buck set. you can also choose your own spring rates when ordering. i have 8/6kg springs in the r33 and its a pretty sweet ride considering how the car goes full noise on the race track, street driving isnt harsh at all

Im glad yo said that mate. Im in the process of setting my car up for track. Currently has JIC coilovers on it but might upgrade later on and get some with camber adjustment etc. So 8kg front and 6kg rear?

Cheers

LTHLRB Grand Master

LTHLRB

Posted
Posted

yeah mate, thats a drift kind of setup with those spring rates, but its a good combo if you have a street car that likes to go sideways from time to time... a full on circuit car would have heavier spring rates but then it becomes too much on the street if you like to live a life of luxury

AMR33 Mentor

AMR33

Posted
Posted

yeah mate, thats a drift kind of setup with those spring rates, but its a good combo if you have a street car that likes to go sideways from time to time... a full on circuit car would have heavier spring rates but then it becomes too much on the street if you like to live a life of luxury

What spring rate do you think would be good for circuit car? Not too fussed if its bumpy or stiff on the road as I dont plan to drive it on the road too often; its mainly going to be for track

Cheers

Amir

sweefu Mentor

sweefu

Posted
Posted

You can change the spring rate on all coilovers.
Especially easy on the generic models such as HSD, BC etc

If you buy HSD from the Aus distributor you can choose your spring rates, I'm sure it would be the same for BC

Otherwise springs are generally $100/pair up to ~12kg or so, then a little more expensive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Roy
      Ben's R32 Gtst Build

      By Roy · Posted

      Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • MBS206
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Shizu
      Returning after a long time!

      By Shizu · Posted

      Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • dbm7
      Looking for a part number for this part here

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...