Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Filter Relocation Kit Help

sinistaGTR

By sinistaGTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

Posted
Posted

So that is the filter relocator part of the setup yeah ? Not the part that bolts to the block ?

Why would that bit get removed ?

Can you remove the one from the block and see if it will screw in, at least that will tell you if its 3/4 unf or not

XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

Posted
Posted

Its M18 but not sure on the thread pitch sorry

Go to a wrecker and find an old VL or r31 with an rb30 in it and Rob the fitting out of it. That's what I did

Wow, so it is the same as the factory RB30 fitting that holds the oil filter, interesting :)

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

I'm pretty sure it was M18 because I had to run a dye over mine. there is a definate step down in the VL filter stud from the filter end to the end that screws into the block and seen as 3/4 is pretty much 19mm I'm fairly certain its 18mm.

Just go and grab one of them, must be close to a wrecker that has some old VL's? There are heaps of them where I am, and I'm not in a huge city.

OR am I misunderstanding how the GREX plate works? mine had a female 3/4 thread to go onto the filter stud to hold the sandwich plate on then had the male 3/4 end sticking out the other side for the filter. The fitting circled looks a bit different so maybe I'm way off in my way of thinking? Not sure

Anyway, I couldnt find the part number for the stud when I was sourcing mine, but if you could find this then a quick trip to Holden/Nissan would net you a brand new one. Maybe go ask Holden and they can look it up. they generally require less information on the vehicle than NIssan. But again that all depends on if I'm thinking on the right lines or not lol

sinistaGTR Grand Master

sinistaGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The thread in the greddy plate is bigger than 3/4x16unf...

The grex plate is the relocator plate, it sits at the top of your engine. It was a male screw in adapter stud (unsure what size) the other end of the stud houses the oil filter (3/4x16unf).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
    • Duncan
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By Duncan · Posted

      what sort of caliper are they? If they are a slider and you gave everything a good clean, you might need to regrease the pins. My guess though is they will come good after some abuse as suggested above
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      I don't know what you should expect with an LS, but the oil pressure sounds terrible, sorry. As for the brakes, you can get fade from the pads not just the fluid, although generally that feels like a wooden block not doing anything while fluid feels like an oh shit there is no pedal so you can generally tell. What pads are you running front and rear?
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Went over my datalogs on a whim and noticed a worrying combination of events. High RPM High Temperature Low Oil Pressure Knock Retard I bought some 10w-60 because I actually think this will be better going forward given track temp is 125C and 10-40 will actually be thinner in those environments. I know I had a leak but it's not entirely sure how much pressure loss can be attributed to that. The knock retard does correlate with all of the above. When it's not present oil pressure is higher. And by 'low' I mean at 6800 RPM the oil pressure was recorded as low as ~35psi pretty constantly. Which is obviously very not good. I'm hoping that thicker oil that ISNT LEAKING will result in a bit more pressure when I need it. Also in the last session I got a very spongy break pedal. I bled the lines as the car is on jack stand right now with the wheels off and I noticed... no air in the lines? Maybe the tiniest bit of tiny frothy bubbles for the first 0.1 seconds of bleeding the whole car? The breaks did come back to me after I backed off (and felt fine driving normally). Doesn't appear to be any leaks anywhere that I can see. Any thoughts on that?
    • MBS206
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Solution, run shitter tyres. Let wheel spin be your weak link 😛
×
×
  • Create New...