Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That's a fair enough point.

Put it this way. I paid $12,000 for my GTR when I was young and didn't know any better. I had no idea of the condition but it looked clean enough from the outside.

The car probably owe's me close to $40,000 today and that's still with a body full of rust and plenty of other issues that need sorting.

If I had my time again I'd take my time and pay a lot more for a decent one.

Your car is beautiful Andreas but I don't think I'd buy one that clean as I do like to give my car a hiding and it does spend some time on the track.

This.

I think im somewhere in the 60's now. And i still have heaps to go. Don't expect to pay 20k and that will be it.

  • Like 1

I know where you come from, Option 1 was to buy a car for $20K then put another $20K into it for a fun weekend track car........Option 2 was to blow it all on a collectable weekend 'cruiser' - guess I got the 2nd option ;-)

No regrets on my part and after I win that $70million Powerball tomorrow I can get back to option 1....

Cheers

The its $40K either way Baron

Sorry mate that 70 mil is mine.

Honestly. If i could do it all again i would find a car that has a straight body (and honestly not give a fk about the engine) and take it straight to the shop and rebuild it.

The amount of $$ i have spent and i still have heaps of work to do. On the positive side the engine is complete... Almost.....

i guess for me a car that comes with full service history and origian factory documents just has something about it esepecially when its a 32gtr. The 4.5b at auction has all of that.. ill be bidding on it tomorrow.

I hear alot about having to spend big money (the cost of the car all over again) but i fail to see why or how it will be that much more then any other car? I understand its getting on in age but if its well looked after, fairly stock and a genuine low k example thats had full service history up to date which this one is then why should i expect to have to spend so much? The car will be a daily but i dont do many k's.

Give us a look at the VIN and Comp Test results when done.

Get as many pics / info and let us have a look.

i should get the info tomrrow but probably not too keen on the car at this stage. i can show you the pics and vin tho if youre interested in the car

  • Like 1

i should get the info tomrrow but probably not too keen on the car at this stage. i can show you the pics and vin tho if youre interested in the car

Yeah sure, I'd be interested to have a look at what the dealer can provide you.

i guess for me a car that comes with full service history and origian factory documents just has something about it esepecially when its a 32gtr. The 4.5b at auction has all of that.. ill be bidding on it tomorrow.

I hear alot about having to spend big money (the cost of the car all over again) but i fail to see why or how it will be that much more then any other car? I understand its getting on in age but if its well looked after, fairly stock and a genuine low k example thats had full service history up to date which this one is then why should i expect to have to spend so much? The car will be a daily but i dont do many k's.

4.5B sounds quite good considering the age and the type of car that it is.

Treat the car nice and it will take you a long way.

Rebuilds can cost a lot but well worth it when you take it to a specialist mechanic.

Hang in there - I missed out on two or three auctions before I got my car and in the end it was a good (even if slightly more expensive) thing.

When your broker suggests a car, just give him the figure that you are prepared to pay for that car at that time. It works eventually.

Cheers

The Baron

would some tuners do this intentionally (advance CAS) and then make changes via the after market ECU to throw others off?

My take is that they do it so someone messing with the car can only retard the timing, and not screw things up by advancing it at all.

  • Like 1

The timing belt might be a tooth out.

Auction ratings are a great indication of condition, but your biggest concern with a R32 should be rust. You can throw in a R33 or R34 RB26 without selling a kidney; try getting rust repaired for anything less.

The local car has the huge advantage of being able to physically inspect the normal problem areas.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
    • It sounds like you want what the Toyota Landcruisers have for their roof racks. Wanna know what you end up with? Rust holes in the roof, and water everywhere...
    • Discovered today that if I select reverse first and take my foot off the brake, then select drive, the drive indicator light works and so does the tiptronic gear indicator. 
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Does anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
×
×
  • Create New...