Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm currently putting together a RB25DE+T neo running from a PS2000. I am intending on running a flex setup to capitalize on the extra compression, while shopping for the ethanol sensor I noticed a few wideband oxygen sensors. What is the general consensus on the value of a wideband for a flexfuel setup?

My build

Internally stock R34 RB25DE+T with a turbo head.

Haltech PS2000 with flexfuel sensor

TD06SH-25G

ID1000s and usual supporting mods

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447180-e85-and-wideband-haltech-ps2000/
Share on other sites

If you can afford it, do it.

It's a great safe guard just to keep an eye on things (if you've got a display for it).

Anything that helps with the ECU's ability to maintain the right AFRs is a good thing too.

I have this exact setup.

it is excellent and takes a grand total of about ten minutes to set up and configure.

The PS2000 handles it stupidly easily. Get their CAN kit and it's literally plug and play, select the AFR you want and you're golden.

Plus you can set a million engine safety variables based on AFR and load.

It apparently disables itself if anything goes a little odd or it doesn't update 200 times a second (lol). Configuring it right is hilariously easy.

And if you're really paranoid, you can set the % of enrichment you want the controller to do, or set it if you only want to let it add fuel (i.e never pull fuel to hit a target AFR)

plus you can do fun shit like tune your own car, and idle and shit.

just buy it

i do not work for haltech

No, you need one of these -> http://store.haltech.com/default/can-devices/can-wideband-kits.html

Whether you want 1 or two sensors is up to you :P

Keep in in mind Mr Haltech says the sensor should be 1 metre from the turbo exhaust housing to avoid it dying too quickly. The stock one is clearly not 1 metre from the housing. Mine is mounted in my cat.

Also note, haltech are out of gauges. So if you buy the set with the gauge expect them to say "shit we don't have a gauge"

However the CAN controller has nicely labelled wiring for a gauge. Anything that reads 0v as 10 AFR and 5v as 20AFR will do.

Playing with idle AFR and cruise AFR is fun.

Btw, the PS2000 does everything in Lambda (you can change it to show "AFR" if you want). Which means the flex sensor does its shit, so you know 1.0 lambda will show as 14.7 AFR, regardless of if you have 20% E85 in the tank or 47% or 100%. So no need to wonder if 11.7 AFR is rich, or lean, or perfect if you're on 3psi at 67% E85 in the tank.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...