Jump to content
SAU Community

Seat Mount Bolts?

Lakes101

By Lakes101,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Lakes101 Experienced

Lakes101

Posted
Posted

Hey there guys just went to tighten down my seats to the floor a touch and my I got a touch carried away with the impact wrench and stripped the threads on two bolt anyone recommend a place to buy hitenstile strength bolts of the sam thread and similar length?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448220-seat-mount-bolts/
Share on other sites
Lakes101 Experienced

Lakes101

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok Cheers Scott same thread tap it is and some thread lock no?. M10 x1.25 sounds right that helicol thing looks pricey. While I'm at it I'll far up some spacers for the passenger seat.

Scott have you got the flairs for the axis still?

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Grand cheers scott. I couldn't get any M10 x 1.25 so I retaped to 1.5 and grabbed some corresponding bolts and all is good cheers gents

I wouldnt say that's all good at all. That's heaps dodgy. How much thread do you think is actually holding now?

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

I wouldnt say that's all good at all. That's heaps dodgy. How much thread do you think is actually holding now?

But it's only the seat. Not like it's the ashtray, or anything similarly important.

  • Like 1
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted (edited)

How is it not its re tapped to 1.5 with new M10 x 1.5 bolts so all the thread holding now. The ashtray is held in with bluetac champ :-P

It's dodgy as.

If you are happy with it thats all that matters.

There's hardly any thread actually holding. I thought that was pretty obvious but it seems it isn't. I could draw a picture for you but really can't be bothered. Maybe when I'm at work I will so you can see just how little thread is actually holding.

Edited by Ben C34
Hertz Donut Proficient

Hertz Donut

Posted
Posted

Now, I'm no engineer but I don't think it's the bolt thread you need to worry about, it's the fact you retapped an M10 hole from 1.25 to 1.5. With the original tapping of the 1.25 pitch a certain amount of metal has cleared out, and overlapping the same diameter with a 1.5 pitch doesn't put back all the metal previously removed by the 1.25, it just shaves extra away, meaning the mating face between the bolt and hole is patchy, and alternates between a full face and almost nothing at all.

...Or am I completely wrong here? I've never had to retap a hole, only remove broken bolts that thankfully didn't damage the thread.

Hertz Donut Proficient

Hertz Donut

Posted
Posted

Now, I'm no engineer but I don't think it's the bolt thread you need to worry about, it's the fact you retapped an M10 hole from 1.25 to 1.5. With the original tapping of the 1.25 pitch a certain amount of metal has cleared out, and overlapping the same diameter with a 1.5 pitch doesn't put back all the metal previously removed by the 1.25, it just shaves extra away, meaning the mating face between the bolt and hole is patchy, and alternates between a full face and almost nothing at all.

Surely to make a safe fit an M12 (maybe?) bolt should be used and a larger hole tapped accordingly.

...Or am I completely wrong here? I've never had to retap a hole, only remove broken bolts that thankfully didn't damage the thread.

Hertz Donut Proficient

Hertz Donut

Posted
Posted

Now, I'm no engineer but I don't think it's the bolt thread you need to worry about, it's the fact you retapped an M10 hole from 1.25 to 1.5. With the original tapping of the 1.25 pitch a certain amount of metal has cleared out, and overlapping the same diameter with a 1.5 pitch doesn't put back all the metal previously removed by the 1.25, it just shaves extra away, meaning the mating face between the bolt and hole is patchy, and alternates between a full face and almost nothing at all.

Surely to make a safe fit an M12 (maybe?) bolt should be used and a larger hole tapped accordingly.

...Or am I completely wrong here? I've never had to retap a hole, only remove broken bolts that thankfully didn't damage the thread.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Mate I'd love a picture I'll hang it on my fridge with the other kids drawings :-P

You should. That might show you why you should actually fix it properly. I'm not going to waste anymore of my time.

It is unsafe. Barely any thread is holding the seats in. I'm sure they won't fall out in general driving, and I truly hope your car isn't involved in a crash.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Now, I'm no engineer but I don't think it's the bolt thread you need to worry about, it's the fact you retapped an M10 hole from 1.25 to 1.5. With the original tapping of the 1.25 pitch a certain amount of metal has cleared out, and overlapping the same diameter with a 1.5 pitch doesn't put back all the metal previously removed by the 1.25, it just shaves extra away, meaning the mating face between the bolt and hole is patchy, and alternates between a full face and almost nothing at all.

Surely to make a safe fit an M12 (maybe?) bolt should be used and a larger hole tapped accordingly.

...Or am I completely wrong here? I've never had to retap a hole, only remove broken bolts that thankfully didn't damage the thread.

You are correct.

Although M12 might be pushing it. A helicoil would be better and will work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...