Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 1993 R33 Gtst series 1 which I bought in June, the engine and ecu are completely stock (hard to believe I know) and the car runs completely fine... most of the time. About once every few weeks it will have a spasm and will not let me go past 2 and half rpm on any gear and jerks violently as if the revs are too high and just cuts the accelerator power once it tries to go past 2 and half rpm.

I am thinking along the lines of something to do with the turbo or maybe AFM, I was just wondering if this has happened to anyone else or if it is a common problem and if someone could offer me some ideas with with how to fix this problem.

Any help/ ideas/ input would be appreciated.

I have 2 videos I recorded today of this occurring but am unable to upload it as it is in mp4 format and am not sure how to convert it so it can be uploaded.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448542-whats-wrong-with-my-r33-please-help/
Share on other sites

Sounds like an afm issue especially and the lower spectrum of the rpm. If you're handy with a solder you can crack it open and soldier all the joints inside it. Its not likely the element is damaged but more likely there's a cold solder in there. If that doesn't fix it then it might be a long road.

OP, post up a pic of the inside of the AFM if you want some opinions. The top of the box part is just glued on, bit of mucking around with a knife etc to get it off but not so hard. Should be able to see the problem if it needs a joint or 2 resoldered

it could be surging due to clogged injectors, run a $10 bottle of injector cleaner through your tank, fixed mine with similar problem and even if its not the problem at least you will have clean injectors

if it is the afm you may not see an obvious fault in the circuit board cos it could just be a dry solder joint so just hit each pad with the iron to make sure the pad is good, but i still think you should try injector cleaner cos it fixed my similar problem

No it's not a burn hole, its just glue.

So I ended up just re-soldering the 4 connection pins which you can see in the 3rd photo because I could see one of the pins looked like it wasn't connected properly. Hopefully this fixes the problem but it will be hard to tell because it was a rare occurrence in the first place.. so time will tell.

I like your idea of injector cleaner too Mick, I might do that as well since it's cheap and can't hurt by giving it a go also.

Thanks for your help gents, I'll let you know how it's going in a few weeks time.

  • 2 weeks later...

After re- soldering those 4 pins in the AFM I've been driving around Sydney quite a bit and the other day I drove Newcastle and back. My problem is fixed!

Thanks for the help!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock RB fuel pressure is near enough 43.5 psi, so the latency in that table at 31.6 will be close. You can see that 7 or 8 psi equates to about 0.4µs extra latency. So if you wanted to interpolate between the 31.6 and 39.9 psi values you could say you're going up about 2 psi out of those 8, so add about 0.1µs, which is barely worth talking about and is quite possibly wrong because ideally you would fix the latency while running at the appropriate conditions on the dyno, with a wideband sniffing its butt.
    • The pressure, is what you set the fuel pressure to. If you have the factory fuel reg, you'll need to find the factory spec. I don't know it off the top of my head, but someone else might.
    • For others, what GTSBoy states here should be paid attention. Why? Well lots of people play with different engines, and they LOVE to change things like remove AC, or steering pumps etc, and it lends to them needing to move the tensioner too. You want your tensioner, particularly those that are sprung or hydraulically tensioned, to be the first thing after the harmonic balancer, or technically the "last" pulley in the chain. By saying last pulley, I mean look at the direction the crank spins when the engine is running, follow the belt from where the crank is pulling the belt FROM, and keep following that until you're between the last pulley/accessory on the belt and about to reach the crank again, this is the spot where you put the tensioner. This is the area that will always end up with slack. This is worked out exactly the same way for chains too, as the physics is the same for them. The crank pulley is where all the force to drag the belt around comes from. You will never ever get rid of the slack that appears, especially under load. The tensioners job is to keep the belt loose enough when stationary that there shouldn't be out of sync movement in slow movement, and then be tight enough when running, that the belt can't jump off any gear and get damaged. Too tight, bad things happen, too loose, bad things happen. Have a tensioner (mainly sprung/hydraulic one) in the wrong spot, it can't actually do anything about keeping the tension.
    • It was gonna take much longer for the 440cc so I'd thought I'd risk it with the 550cc. They finally arrived and I couldn't wait any longer (I could but I was quite excited after 2 months) and installed them myself. Removed the old injectors, inserted the new and connected everything up. Before starting the car, I tuned the injector size from the factory 270cc to 550cc using Nistune.   This did some of the calculations automatically which catered for the TIM. The latency however did not seem to change. Deatschwerks have the tuning data available for each injector online, and I had a look at it. It has a table which relates to latency according to pressure and voltage (see below image). Nistune requires the 14v value, but I am unsure of which pressure value to look at (my lack of knowledge and experience have something to do with this). The highlighted value is close to my current latency which is 760µs. It is for 14v which makes sense, and the pressure is 31.6 Psi.   I still gave the car a test drive to see how it goes, and honestly it has never felt so powerful before (and some people say the RB20DE is very weak?). I really enjoyed the drive. Side note; The injectors are quite noisy, which someone mentioned before. This does not really bother me however. I will still ask my mechanic to have a look at it and perhaps ask a tuner to fine tune it if they have the knowledge.
    • Also true. But imagine not wanting new injectors? Imagine wanting to use 30 year old injectors?
×
×
  • Create New...