Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Plenty of people run without VCT so is it really that detrimental to the cams? Keeping in mind I have a Neo head which is different to R33.

And I have absolutely zero motorvation (pun intended) to do anything on the piece of shite at the moment.

I know that and I completely understand why, yes VCT is very worthwhile. Only a few months ago I would have said anyone is crazy not keeping VCT. But in my situation I am very time restricted and have zero drive to do anything on the car at the moment.

  • 2 years later...

sorry to revive the thread i have the exact same leak happening on my car. I am about to pull the head off and redo it. The engine is a 25/30 too and im not sure if the previous engine builder made a feed to the cam journal. So I thought id check that while the head was off.

what was the root cause to the oil leak?

It was coming from where my 'fabricator' had tried to weld a fitting to the head for the external VCT. That head turned out to be junk and I had to get a new Neo head. The second head was then tapped and died and a fitting screwed in instead.

Where exactly is yours leaking from? And how is your external VCT feed setup

  • Like 1

I too have a similar situation but mine appears to be from the rear passenger side.  I have noticed a bit of oil around the front cover but it doesn't drip from there at all. Haven't looked into it much as i have walked away from it and other things for a bit. I re torqued my head just to make sure and used a rb30 mls cometic 1.3mm head gasket. Head was fully refurbed by a head shop and block was also machined sqr to deck  when built to get 100% 0 deck height and blue print it.

It was coming from where my 'fabricator' had tried to weld a fitting to the head for the external VCT. That head turned out to be junk and I had to get a new Neo head. The second head was then tapped and died and a fitting screwed in instead.

Where exactly is yours leaking from? And how is your external VCT feed setup


The issue is that I bought the car with an RB25/30 built engine.The sneaky bugger must have washed it off or something before I inspected the vehicle.

I've attached a picture below of what it looks like. I'm hoping it's the shitty blank off that's been used. If that's the case it will be an easy fix.

IMG_20170311_155527.jpg
IMG_20170311_155522.jpg
On 3/11/2017 at 4:30 PM, Borci88 said:

Are you sure it's not just a leaking cam seal Bryce?

I'm hoping its something minor like that. It would suck regardless having to replace cam seals. Ill start by replacing the blank off to see if that solves the issue.

  • 2 months later...

Can someone tell me the right 3-Bond to use.

I'm going to be attempting this tomorrow. Would rather not undo the cams. I know it's dangerous and could snap the cams. But has anyone taken off the front cam caps to ad sealant without snapping the cams?

 

So I took off everything to get to the cam seals and this is what I found.20170527_163835.jpg

Seems to be oil leaking from both seal. The backing made this more evident as you can see from the picture. Now following the advice posted here. The front cam cap should have a bit of sealant on it. There isn't any on this head. So I'm just going to use Ultra Black RTV on the mating surfaces. I couldn't find any 3-Bond orange. 20170527_163742.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...