Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i'm basically chasing a price bracket for a highmount turbo.

what have you paid and was it worth it.

i'm still pretty new to turbo cars i've owned my r34 gtt for approximately a 1yr and looking and upgrading the turbo etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449028-highmount-turbo-price-bracket/
Share on other sites

It's obvious you are new. ;)

You could highmount any turbo so maybe you should be more specific as to how much power you are chasing and why you actually want a highmount. You can fit some big (400rwkw) turbos onto stock manifold.

Edited by Ben C34

haha i just don't have alot of knowledge about all this

i was looking at a Tog1 bb turbo anyone know if they are a reputable brand i got some specs for you guys to have a look at i'm not quite sure myself how responsive they are but its bb so isn't that good for starters?

8xmxyw.jpg

what if i state whats already been done to my car will that help shed some light on the situations haha

i've already got when i bought the car turboback varex exhaust, upgraded intercooler and the rest in split fire coilpacks and larger fuel pump it's currently making 280hp with the stock ecu got nistune to go in soon hopefully, i'm basically just trying to break into the high 300's shouldn't be too hard

something like this?

http://www.hypergearturbos.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=74&product_id=69

if i've got a turbo back exhaust already does that mean my manifold has been changed most likely?

sorry for such n00b questions

something like this?

http://www.hypergearturbos.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=74&product_id=69

if i've got a turbo back exhaust already does that mean my manifold has been changed most likely?

sorry for such n00b questions

That is a high flow option that uses your factory housings. Means its a 100% bolt on turbo.

If you wish to go for a simple cheap high mount that is responsive and makes good power, Go for our SL20.5. Proven performance.

http://www.hypergearturbos.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=72_76&product_id=61

Both of them will out perform the TOG item in the accounts of power v response, and reliability.

  • Like 1

Not sure how much power you are targeting. Our ATR43SS2 is made to be a bolton turbo that can support towards the 300rwkws mark on P98 fuel.

To high mount, all the hot side has to be re-made, as well as all the lines and pipping connected to the turbocharger. For a Proper high mount and external gate setup, you will be looking to spend around $1500.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...