Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

First off,

All rhymes intended.
Secondly,

Hi, Long time stalker of the SAU forums. Not a very often poster.
Here is my situation,

Recently (3 months ago) i had purchased privately a beautiful 1998 R34 Gt-t

The more i look at the car the more i tend to notice, These arent negative things. Just id like to further my knowledge and get some insight to whats happening.

As it is now (as far as i know is fairly stock. The only real modifications ive come across are as follows.

-Greks oil filter relocation
-Splitfire coilpacks

-Hks Coilovers

-Power steering fluid relocation

-3.5" Exhaust

-R34 MFD
-Aftermarket Oil Cooler. (Im guessing aftermarket as i dont think nissan uses bright blue coloured piping around the cooler)
-1.5 way diff locker

Now onto the real questioning. Looking through my engine bay one day i noticed on the right hand side, a valve or solenoid looking setup with two hose ports. These two hose ports not being attatched to anything led me to consult the R34 manual. Subsequently ive found that its the turbo pressure solenoid valve. According to the r34 MFD installed in the car, at peak ive managed to crank 0.93kg/cm2, now after some googling and a random ass turbo pressure conversion chart the value comes out to 13.3psi.

I then choked on my milo and had a realised maybe thats something to do with this solenoid not being connected.

Ill have some photos uploaded. Any advice or knowledge you can share will be really helpful. And also 13 psi feels like its too much for a stock turbo. Dont really wanna blow anything

Thanks in advance

post-135498-0-84581000-1411806069_thumb.jpg

post-135498-0-58774500-1411806095_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449091-in-need-of-some-expertise-please/
Share on other sites

looking at that...it looks like at some point an aftermarket boost controller has been fitted....see those small blue hoses....they aren't standard...have a look around for a boost controller solenoid with a hose connected to it...i'll look similar to the stock one...or it might just be a air bleed valve.

Edited by Badgaz

Yes that's the stock boost control solenoid.

No it's not too much for the stock turbo - although there is some risk that it might die at that boost level.

Yes, it is too much boost for the stock ECU and it must run like a dog if it hasn't had something done (Nistune, other ECU transplant) to make it happier.

Look for hoses running too/from the wastegate actuator and the turbo compressor housing/outlet/intercooler pipe to see what sort of boost controller has been installed in place of the stocker.

Edited by GTSBoy

Okay sweet, thanks guys.

and well when i had bought the car it would misfire coming onto boost or any load. Since that i changed the coilpacks and plugs and shes running like a dream.
I bought an OBI Port and got nissan datascan out and running on the laptop. It qued up to the computer so that leads me to assume its a stock ECU. Otherwise it wouldnt reference the laptop/program.

ill follow what yous said. see what i can find.

thanks heaps for the help, anything else you can come up with would be extremely appreciated. cheers

Negative, no front mount intercooler in this case. So yeah itd have to be the stock side mount. Excuse my lack of knowledge, but that stock side mount intercooler. Whereabouts is he hiding in the engine bay?.

The last 3 months have been the biggest learning curve for me haha.

Though on the other hand this weekend I didnt have time to look around for anything you guys suggested but as soon as I do ill be right back on here

Sidemount lives inside the passenger side guard - in front of wheel.

It is too small to run raised boost through too. No more than maybe 10 psi recommended. GTT ECUs don't really like much more than 12 psi anyway, so you really need to do something about getting the boost back under control.

You could have a Nistune chip in your ECU or some kind of mickey mouse boost cut defender or such like. Post up your location and try to meet some fellow skyline owners for a chat and to compare notes.

Yeah definitely need to sort this out. Thanks heaps guys.

Im around Revesby area. Ill be handy with a case of beers if someone with a bit more knowledge than i could assist in finding out what the goes is!
Nevertheless its heading over to tunehouse for a dyno run in about two weeks. Guess i could ask them to look over the car.

The car coming from japan means its a mystery, I wonder if the auction papers could show a bit more information. Good thing i cant read japanese hahaha (buggered if id know how to get this translated).

all in all i just want to know exactly whats in the car so eventually i can choose to f**k it off or build off it !

Just randomly came across this lol, I have a r32 gtst and the boost is at 11 psi as far as I know the ecu is stock. Does to much boost really cause your car to run crap because mine idles really bad.

Running higher boost won't make your car idle bad. Unless it has fouled the plugs from running rich or damaged the engine. 11 psi on a 32 ecu wouldn't do that.

Just randomly came across this lol, I have a r32 gtst and the boost is at 11 psi as far as I know the ecu is stock. Does to much boost really cause your car to run crap because mine idles really bad.

When you say bad what do you mean? Hunting? stalling? popping/farting? high idle? hard to say without more info but we might be able to help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...