Jump to content
SAU Community

Is My Oil Catcher Plumbed Wrong? Not Catching Oil

KrazyTurk

By KrazyTurk,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

KrazyTurk Enthusiast

KrazyTurk

Posted
Posted

iv had cases of oil leaks before but asumed it was leaking from the oil catcher though i did get that replaced

now i noticed theres still leaks but its not coming from the catcher but from some sort of filter under the pod i think its a breather ?

iv attached a picture of how my catchcan settup is and where the leaking is from (brown shading represents oil leaks)

http://i.imgur.com/P3jxTH7.png

the catchcan itself seems literally empty

my question is why isnt the catchcan catching the oil? but passing down through the breather

R_34 Community Regular

R_34

Posted
Posted

The oil catch can doesn't catch the oil because it doesn't see any blow-by gases through it.

The catch can shall be between the rocker cover and the breather/intake pipe.

As is your catch can is totally useless.

KrazyTurk Enthusiast

KrazyTurk

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

ah i see this whole thing is plumbed incorrectly then and despite the several mechanics i went to about it didnt mention anything

even though the breather is before the catchcan wouldn't the can at least catch something other side of rocker cover?

i have a feeling the can might be installed incorrectly by the mechanic too lol

just figured that the breather/filter i was confused about was there to vent gases/oil to atmosphere instead of the intake

Edited by KrazyTurk
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Yep that's a fairly retarded way to plumb in the catch can. It would only catch what's coming out of the inlet cam cover

How much is coming out anyway? A healthy engine none should come out.

  • Like 1
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

That means two things

1 your engine is tired.

2 your catch can sucks. It should be baffled.

Actually it doesn't necessarily mean 2 until such time as he sets the plumbing up properly and then oil still comes out the vent.

OP......you need the catch can to be in the path between the engine and the vent. Merge the two hoses from the cam covers together and hook them to one connection on the catch can. Connect the vent to the other port on the catch can. Run it and report back. If the can works, then there will be oil in it. If the can doesn't work (per Ben's suggestion above) then there will be oil in it and oil outside it!

Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

Posted
Posted

worth noting that the filter/breather is a bad idea. Hook it up to the turbo intake.

1. It's illegal

2. the filter material will become soaked in oil and drip. also it's a fire hazard

3. Supposedly exposing the crank case to vacuum from the turbo will help keep the rings on their seats with a worn engine. I don't know how true this is.

4. Also if you've got blowby, and I assume you do. then boost is escaping from the combustion chamber into the crankcase where it is venting to atmosphere. typically you want this to recirculate to the turbo's inlet. I'm not sure if this would affect AFR's though

Anyway, hook up the catch can between the rocker covers and the compressor inlet. That should allow you to tick all the boxes of legality while keeping oil out of your intake

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

so i hooked everything up correctly and now noticed smoke coming out from exhaust pipe?

Ok that indicates that oil fumes are getting though the catch can so you need to baffle the catch can and/or put an air/oil seperator (could be another baffled catch can) into the line from the catch can to the turbo intake. If there is masses of oil coming out at WOT refer to the oil control thread for more answers.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

When you say hooked it properly most people would take that as you hooked it up the proper way, with the catch can venting back to the inlet.

Are you sure it's hooked up properly at the moment?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

That's not hooked up properly. That filter on the far right.....shouldn't be there. That hose should be hooked up to the turbo inlet pipe, so that the air that flows through the catch can into the engine has been through the AFM. We explained all that already.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

It's a shame even after being told how to do it you still do it wrong, and are adamant that it's correct.

It's wrong.

Simple as that. If you don't understand that's cool, get someone who knows what they are doing to do it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • Duncan
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...