Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

I have scored another 32moredoor gts4(scored it mega cheap...), when I bought it the engine had been played with.
Has had FFP and topmount td06-20g-external gate installed, fmic, stock injectors, stock coilpacks, stock afm(green label), stock ecu(still untuned after installs).
I have seen the car running before all installs and it was mint.

Has also had alarm/immobiliser and switch to disengage the front diff installed (have herd of immobiliser screwing with some cars)

On cold start I have to feed it to get it to start and idle which it only just does, once running it struggles to run, misses like crazy(sounds like a rough subaru) and overfuels(can smell it) sits on about 500rpm then stalls out.

Ecu is telling me code 43 but I have had multimeter on the TPS wiring and all is good voltage wise but nothing changes when its running and I disconnect the plugs on the side. Has been swapped out for a known working tps and same problem.

Didnt think a turbo and plenum swap would throw everything out so much???
Blows a bit of white smoke which im guessing is fuel.
Havent kept it alive long enough to get warm incase its something major.

All the coilpacks are fine and plugs seem to be ok aswell, swapped out ignitor and no change

Also there is NO change in idle etc when I unplug the AAC etc...

I have looked into most things and am about to send it to a shop but would rather save the $$$ for when I get nistune/afm/injectors/TUNE but dont want to do all that and find out the motor is ROOTED!!!!

I attached a before and after of the engine, did a massive tidy up/clean while trying to find the root of the problem, has all new vac lines etc now. Can upload a video of it trying to run if that may help.

post-116531-0-74971200-1413098241_thumb.jpg

post-116531-0-45967000-1413098439_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449625-rb20det-help-please/
Share on other sites

unfortunately for you, running aftermarket turbos on the factory ecu can make the engine grenade on boost. I would suggest a comp test at the minimum.

Check AFM wiring, and maybe for vac leaks. Although a vac leak usually leads to a high and lean idle.

white smoke is usually a bad indication but it could have been condensation in the exhaust if the engine hasn't fully warmed up yet.

note; if you do a comp test don't forget a wet test as well to get an idea of the piston ring condition

So did the car get hammered with the new stuff on it or just started and it was running crap?

As Blackkers said if it got a hard time with the new turbo etc it would have easily killed the engine.

Coming from an sr20 background I have been lookign at the pvc and aac scraching my head actually.....looking at all the treads about these and they just make me scrach my head more lol....

I have a broken hand atm so having trouble pulling it apart so havent gotten to taking the pvc out

The whole plenum set up has me scraching my head actually. Been wondering if having ALL vac lines for wastegate etc coming straight out of the plenum might be confusing the ecu a bit? not currently running a bov so no vac in cooler piping only the 3 coming out of the plenum as you can see in pics....

had a little tinker before and pulled aac off and cleaned it (was sooo full of carbon) then set the idle on the side of that which had it running a bee's d!ck better

Your pcv setup won't be helping.

^^^ Agree, is there even a PCV valve there? looks just like a fitting then hose to rocker cover. Will be sucking un metered air.

You mean the fitting on the firefall side of the ffp?

Edited by Noddy42

You mean the fitting on the firefall side of the ffp?

I think they might be concerned by the open breathers on the cam covers.

If you are from an SR20 background, then setting up the various connections on an FFP on an RB should be simply a case of making them look and do what they do on an SR. Same things have to go the same places.

I think they might be concerned by the open breathers on the cam covers.

If you are from an SR20 background, then setting up the various connections on an FFP on an RB should be simply a case of making them look and do what they do on an SR. Same things have to go the same places.

Thats easy enough then, should be all good.

Will block them all bar one and see what that does

Your pcv setup won't be helping.

^^^ Agree, is there even a PCV valve there? looks just like a fitting then hose to rocker cover. Will be sucking un metered air.

You guys where spot on, the pvc valve is still in the stock plenum and thats just a open fitting...... going to change it now. Cheers guys

By the way. It's PCV, not PVC. PVC is a type of plastic.

LOL sorry.... to much pvc at work.

PCV was some of the problem, noticable differance, now it starts/turns over and stalls straight away, I can baby it at 1000rpm but as soon as foot comes off it stalls. WAY WAY less fuel smell now but a hint still there.

Thanks shitloads guys,

still getting the error code 43/tps wiring tho.... anyone know of anything else that would cause that to come up? voltages for the tps seem sweet as and has been swapped for known working one.

Whoever did the plumbing of the all vac lines & breather lines should be revoked of his man hood and grow a vagina..

You need to plumb back OR block the PCV line going back into the plenum as the car is still running an AFM.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.
    • A full Veilside kitted JZA80 Supra in Meriken park in Kobe city a few weeks back
    • Its a well known brand in New Zealand; its a rebrand of the Rhino RAV3.  I don't know what the wiring difference *is* between the rev.1 (installed about 15 years ago) and rev.2; but as you say I would think its reasonable that it uses the same immobiliser relay circuits. I had a look but couldnt see a similar harness; but didnt move things around since I didnt want to mess with it   It was one of AVS well known Authorised Installers; I spoke to AVS themselves about it but theyre unsure hence seeking advice more so from the skyline community who are more familiar with the actual car and its wiring. Im in Auckland; but the installer is on the other side of the city so hes very reluctant to come back to even look at it to confirm something isnt connected into the wrong wire.  I dont want to drop the name since they *did* do a really good job for the most part. Everything is very tidy and he fully replaced all the alarm wiring, all the sensors, the wiring to the door motors, installed a switch which was never installed in the first place...really happy with the alarm install itself..just not this one issue. We all make mistakes, if it is the alarm, I just want my fuel pump getting proper switched, fused, power as it was; without having to shell out for an auto electrician to switch a wire and tell me it was the alarm. 
    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
×
×
  • Create New...