Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Located Brisbane south side. $22,000 or trade for R32/R33 GTR.

Makes just shy of 500rwhp on 24psi. Dyno sheet is for 22psi and old fuel pump setup. Runs on E85 but can run on 98.

Best I have done is 12.1 at 124mph at Test n Tune.

No china shit to be seen on this car!
Standard RB25DET VCT NEO
Steam pipe high mount manifold
Garrett GTX3582R V-band rear housing
Turbosmart ProGate 50mm
Bosch 1000cc injectors
Proflow fuel rail
Tomei fuel pressure regulator
Speedflow billet filter

Plazmaman intake plenum
Haltech Platinum Pro ER34 Plug-in w/anti-lag launch control
Haltech 4 bar map sensor
Haltech boost control solenoid
Haltech flex fuel sensor
Splitfire coil packs
Custom stainless dump and front pipe
100 cell Venom cat converter
HKS HighPower cat back exhaust
600x300x100mm FMIC
Tial 50mm BOV
Walbro 460lph E85 fuel pump
Direct Clutch Services 10 puck button clutch

Lowered coil springs

R34 GTR wheels

HID Headlights

Recently detailed by Riz at Ott-Ocd Works

PM or phone/text Michael 0427 904 390

post-89539-0-40577900-1413350601_thumb.jpg

post-89539-0-34770700-1413350607_thumb.jpg

post-89539-0-45946500-1413350612_thumb.jpg

post-89539-0-53448000-1413350617_thumb.jpg

post-89539-0-89146200-1413350744_thumb.jpg

post-89539-0-00439800-1413350750_thumb.jpg

post-89539-0-64778600-1413350755_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...