Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I did 3 coats of color, didn't sand at all but let it dry for a few hours then did about 4 coats of clear, purely because I knew I'd probably be doing a lot of cutting back due to it being my first time painting.

Yeah that's about right...though I usually let colour dry for about half an hour only then clear...

I was told it gets a better bond to the colour this way..

I haven't painted a whole car before, but most panels I have done have been almost perfect straight out of the gun...You need your spray hun set up properly and you need good weather conditions...If these are right there is no reason it shouldn't be almost perfect without the need for much correction...

I use a 1.2 mm tip and just got some instructions for setting up the gun on Utube...and warm panels will take paint alot better than cold ones so warm them up.. I find about 30degree days to be best...use the sun heaters whatever..same with rattle can painting, always leave the can in the sun for half hour before you paint and you will find it comes out the can much cleaner and more uniform.....2-3 coats colour 5-10 minutes apart, 2-3 coats clear 30min later, wait a week and give it a quick wetrub with 2-3000 and if you laid the paint correctly it should be spot on...

The aim is to get the paint down good, not fix it later. ;)

Edited by ARTZ

Gun set up..... i had so much trouble.

And for me it was barely 20 degrees.

I totally agree with you ARTZ, but lack of skill can make it difficult.

For example; i dont have fingermarks from sanding, i have a mogul field.

I hope it turns out better than mine.

  • Like 1

your car looks pretty good tho Mik...:thumbsup:

Whats a Mogul field?

There's a really good video on gun setup I found...some real occer bloke...I did exactly as he said and nailed it first time....I have a feeling I had the same brand gun though, might of helped. :rofl:

But yeah I have a black 34 bonnet here I painted in the cold of winter, Im respraying it for him because despite heatlamps and lights going in the shed I think the cold weather has made the paint go all milky in spots....you cant see them here but they are there...this is only Acrylic post-65674-0-24637000-1414056555_thumb.jpg I never buffed it properly because I knew I would respray it...gave it a quick buzz with a 2500 grit disc and FG500..Just enough to get through winter without too much embarrassment... :P

Edited by ARTZ

Moguls:

mogul_2156261a.jpg

You can see it on my roof and other large flat areas, if you look close. Cant see it in photos.

Next time i will be more careful. And use 2 pack.

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik
  • 2 weeks later...

Haven't had much more time recently. Sanded back a few more with 2000 but yet to hit it with any polish, when I get round to it I'll update with pictures :)

If your in Sydney let me know I'm happy to come and show you exactly what to do to make it look the goods

  • 2 weeks later...

Little thread revival to ask a quick question, didn't want to make a whole other topic, what is the best way to remove dried polish from things, glass/paint ect. I wasn't real careful when I begun buffing and there's white dots of polish that are really hard to get off just about everywhere ahah.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...