Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heyas

Just wondering are Rb20 80mm AFM's as good of an upgrade as Z32 ones or would I be wasting my time?

I understand they are both 80mm but I dont understand how the voltages work, I think the rb20 have a lower voltage or something?

Just asking as rb20 AFM's seem to be alot cheaper then Z32 ones.

Thanks :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45023-80mm-afms/
Share on other sites

I measured the internal diameter of the RB20 AFM and its only 70mm.

I always thought they were 80mm also.

I've had a S1 RB25 AFM on my car, it ran perfect and was the same size side by side. (I didn't measure them at that time)

Reason I decided to measure the AFM is i've been having a few idling issues so I decided to slap the Mesh back in. And what do you know.. A Perfect idle at 600rpm, no more hunting or popping.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45023-80mm-afms/#findComment-918961
Share on other sites

Hi midnightGTR, RB20/25 and Z32 AFM's are all 80 mm OD, that's outside diameter, not ID that's inside diameter. There is no real difference between an RB20 and an RB25 AFM. On the other hand the Z32 AFM is calibrated differently, so at the airflow the RB20/25 AFM shows max voltage, ~5 volts the Z32 afm is only showing ~4 volts. This means when the airlfow gets higher the Z32 can still show voltage increases to the ECU.

Q45 (Infinity) AFM's are 90 mm (OD), so they have the same calibration advantage but they are also larger in diameter for less restriction.

Hope that helps. :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45023-80mm-afms/#findComment-919154
Share on other sites

yeah you're right the voltage on the RB20 AFM is lower than a Z32 unit. something like the impedence (ohms) of the afm being lower makes them melt internally when you wind up massive power. some crap like that. steer clear of them.

I think you will find they are a good upgrade for a GTR pumping out reasonable amounts of power. Basically the difference between the Z32 and RB20 AFM will be for a given cfm of airflow, the RB20 AFMs will read a higher voltage, which depending on your hp could be a problem when it comes to tuning. (if the AFM goes out of range then there is no way the ECU knows how much fuel to inject, but can still be tuned around)

So if you have the std crappy 65mm GTR AFMs then RB20 units are a much cheaper upgrade then Z32s, and equally as capable provided you arent running huge power (i suspect the power figure would be + 350rwkws but GTR owners would know better then me)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45023-80mm-afms/#findComment-919159
Share on other sites

Hi, I have posted this table a few times, but just in case you missed it.

Air Flow meters RWKW & Engine BHP

------ ---- OD ---- RWKW ---- RWKW ---- BHP ------ BHP

No of AFM's ---- ------- 1 -------- 2 -------- 1 -------- 2

RB26 ------ 65 ------ 149 ------ 299 ------ 271 ------ 474

RB20/25 --- 80 ------ 226 ------ 453 ------ 376 ------ 683

Z32 ------- 80 ------ 255 ------ 511 ------ 415 ------ 763

Q45 ------- 90 ------ 302 ------ 605 ------ 479 ------ 890

Please note that this is only an indication, every engine is different and tuning makes a big difference. :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45023-80mm-afms/#findComment-919168
Share on other sites

it would seem to me that an upgrade to r32 afm's would be a good thing. on an r32, one 80mm afm was sufficient for reading airflow for six cylinders. on an rb26 that was upgraded with r32 80mm afm's, each afm is only measuring airflow theoretically for three cylinders. depending on how full on the rb26 is, i don't think you would ever max out the r32 afm's.

thats just my thoughts on how it might work. :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45023-80mm-afms/#findComment-919193
Share on other sites

Are they the limts for each meter ?

The first column is RWKW for 1 X AFM, the secomd column is RWKW for 2 X AFM's, the third column is (engine) bhp for 1 X AFM, the fourth column is (engine) bhp for 2 X AFM's. :idea:

Hi Crack, as per the table, 1 X RB26 AFM is good for 149 RWKW. whereas 1 X RB20/25 AFM is good for 226 RWKW.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45023-80mm-afms/#findComment-919219
Share on other sites

Are they the limts for each meter ?

The first column is RWKW for 1 X AFM, the secomd column is RWKW for 2 X AFM's, the third column is (engine) bhp for 1 X AFM, the fourth column is (engine) bhp for 2 X AFM's. :idea:

Hi Crack, as per the table, 1 X RB26 AFM is good for 149 RWKW. whereas 1 X RB20/25 AFM is good for 226 RWKW. :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45023-80mm-afms/#findComment-919221
Share on other sites

So I would be better off going to rb20 afm's then sticking with the factory ones.

Only when you have reached the standard AFM's limits, ~300 rwkw.

Oh what are the Q45's from

A Q45 is a Nissan Infiniti, 4.5 litre V8, only has 1 X AFM so its a biggy. :aroused:

www.infiniti.com

Doughboy has some for sale I think, check his trader add in the "for sale" section. :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45023-80mm-afms/#findComment-919282
Share on other sites

Hi guys, to elaborate a bit further on Sydneykids post, with a power FC you can simply "change" AFM at the press of a button. You only really need to do this once you past the max power rating Sydneykid stated on the above posts. Going for a "too big" an AFM like a 2x Z32 meters on a GTR with no other mods can lead you to be using less of the load map and therfore less tuning resolution than if you stuck with the std GTR meters. Also as far as a "restriction" goes has anyone ever measured the GTR turboes std compressor inducer? Its certainly much smaller the a Z32 AFM or even the std GTR meters.

Even an HKS 2530 only has a 47mm inducer so putting on huge AFM ain't going to make more power as far as restrictions go.

But like Sydneykid says 300kw or a bit more going to a set of RB25 meters will give you that extra mapping resolution that you need at higher CFM's without going overboard.

Mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45023-80mm-afms/#findComment-919835
Share on other sites

Considering alternative AFM's, I recently discovered that SR20 non turbo throttle bodies are larger than the SR20DET. The guy bought one from the wrecker I was at for about $80 and understood it was worth a few kW on his S14 SR20DET.

Getting to the piont though, is the SR20 AFM also larger, or is it the same as SR20DET which I would assume is close to RB20DET/25DET?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45023-80mm-afms/#findComment-919870
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Just wondering what the whole process of installing Z32 or the RB20 in a GTR is. Obviously changing the size 65mm to 80mm will require filter adaptors and the adapted plugs. Tried to find some info but couldn't track it down in the forums. Say you had the HKS pods do you need diff piping??

Cheers,

Penold

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45023-80mm-afms/#findComment-970276
Share on other sites

Just wondering what the whole process of installing Z32 or the RB20 in a GTR is.  Obviously changing the size 65mm to 80mm will require filter adaptors and the adapted plugs.  Tried to find some info but couldn't track it down in the forums.  Say you had the HKS pods do you need diff piping??

Cheers,

Penold

Hi Penfold, the rubber pipes from the turbos will stretch over the 80 mm, just be careful and use some lubricant. The best way to fit airfilters is to buy a pair of 80mm PODs, since that is RB20/25 size, they are easy to get. Then sell the 65 mm ones and get some of your money back. The plugs are different so make sure you get the 80 mm AFM's with plugs. I wire the 80mm AFM's connectors in parralel with the standard 65 mm AFM's connectors, as it is easy to swap back to the 65mm AFM's if you have any problems.

Hope that helps:cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45023-80mm-afms/#findComment-970336
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...