Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Going by your details as posted above Merli, unless you're talking about drag racing that drop between 1st and 2nd is pretty much irrelevant.

If talking track, 2750 between 2nd and 3rd is a much smaller powerband and even that would only be used at a tight track like Wakefield.

A consideration maybe?

I wish I knew what my ratios were.

:thumbsup:

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Going by your details as posted above Merli, unless you're talking about drag racing that drop between 1st and 2nd is pretty much irrelevant.

 

If talking track, 2750 between 2nd and 3rd is a much smaller powerband and even that would only be used at a tight track like Wakefield.

 

A consideration maybe?

 

I wish I knew what my ratios were.

 

:thumbsup:

Well................... not really :D :D

Are you saying that you only use 5750-8500 rpm whilst driving on the track? Often it's not feasible to change down a gear to keep it in that rev range...

Example:

A tight corner that should be taken in 3rd gear at about 5000 rpm can't be taken in 2nd gear, as that would equate to 7500rpm in 2nd gear (with R33 GTR gearing). You'd actually lose time in the extra two gear changes needed to use 2nd gear into and out of that corner, and you'd only be in 2nd gear for about 0.5 seconds as it revs from 7500-8500rpm anyway.... Make sense?

In reality, you'd be aiming to have a strong 4500-8500rpm range around the track...

Oops, sorry mate...

Here are the gear ratios for the R33 GTS-t Auto box... The R34 Tiptronic is just an automatic gearbox, so I assume it would be the same ratios as the R33 Auto?

1st - 2.785

2nd - 1.545

3rd - 1.000

4th - 0.694

Final Drive - Dunno, probably 4.111

Going by your details as posted above Merli, unless you're talking about drag racing that drop between 1st and 2nd is pretty much irrelevant.

 

If talking track, 2750 between 2nd and 3rd is a much smaller powerband and even that would only be used at a tight track like Wakefield.

 

A consideration maybe?

 

I wish I knew what my ratios were.

 

:cheers:

lol, I have an R34 RB25DET that I'm swapping into my 89 240sx SOOO i found the gear ratios for the GT-T and got the answers..... assuming your car is manual transmission

Engine speeds in top gear:-

30 MPH = 977 RPM 40 MPH = 1303 RPM 50 MPH = 1629 RPM 60 MPH = 1955 RPM

70 MPH = 2280 RPM 80 MPH = 2606 RPM 90 MPH = 2932 RPM 100 MPH = 3258 RPM

Top Speed in 1 gear = 37.574 MPH

And changes into 2 gear at 4000 RPM dropping 2800 RPM

Top Speed in 2 gear = 63.876 MPH

And changes into 3 gear at 4338 RPM dropping 2462 RPM

Top Speed in 3 gear = 100.120 MPH

And changes into 4 gear at 5015 RPM dropping 1785 RPM

Top Speed in 4 gear = 135.763 MPH

And changes into 5 gear at 5181 RPM dropping 1619 RPM

Top Speed in 5 gear = 178.176 MPH

And changes into 6 gear at 5804 RPM dropping 996 RPM

Top Speed in 6 gear = 208.746 MPH

oh yeah, ignore the 6th gear (obviously)

Well................... not really :):rofl:

Are you saying that you only use 5750-8500 rpm whilst driving on the track? Often it's not feasible to change down a gear to keep it in that rev range...  

Example:

A tight corner that should be taken in 3rd gear at about 5000 rpm can't be taken in 2nd gear, as that would equate to 7500rpm in 2nd gear (with R33 GTR gearing). You'd actually lose time in the extra two gear changes needed to use 2nd gear into and out of that corner, and you'd only be in 2nd gear for about 0.5 seconds as it revs from 7500-8500rpm anyway.... Make sense?

In reality, you'd be aiming to have a strong 4500-8500rpm range around the track...

Shoot Merli, you really have got it :cheers:

  • 1 month later...
That seems simple enough... Cheers!

But after a bit of simple maths, I've worked out the revs drop for each gearchange for an R33 GTR :P

Gear Change Rev Drops (rounded for simplicity)

1st-2nd    3410rpm (8500rpm -> 5090rpm)

2nd-3rd    2750rpm (8500rpm -> 5750rpm)

3rd-4th    1970rpm (8500rpm -> 6530rpm)

4th-5th    2110rpm (8500rpm -> 6390rpm)

So R33 GTR owners should be aiming for a powerband between 4500rpm -> redline (taking into account poor drivers holding you up)... Is that right?

Makes sense... I can understand why people consider GT2530s perfect track turbos for the GTR, since that pretty much fits the required powerband prefectly! ;):)

Very interesting, thanks!

Andrew

Try this

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...