Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch Pedal Stuck To Floor, Cannot Change Gears With Clutch


Recommended Posts

Hi everyone

I recently bought an r33 skyline gtst, been loving it up until now. I was driving and suddenly I tried to change gears and the pedal stuck to the floor, and the clutch wouldn't disengage and I had to drive home without using the clutch pedal, resulting in a lot of grinding gears and struggling to get moving at traffic lights.

I was thinking it might be something to do with the slave cylinder... anybody have any info? Has anybody else had this problem?

Edited by MBar93

Is there fluid in the master cylinder?

EDIT: I was wrong, it's actually full

I apologise for sounding pretty dumb, I've never had issues with clutches or hydraulic lines and cylinders with previous cars so I know next to nothing about that stuff haha

Edited by MBar93

The master cylinder may need to be adjusted for it's home position, but bleeding clutches without the Vac bleeder is very hit and miss from my experience.

So it was working OK, fluid level is correct and now it's not working.

No fluid leaks on the concrete.

Push type clutch?

Unless you've destroyed the pressure plate, it has to be either master cylinder, broken pedal, broken throw out lever or perhaps pivot ball.

The broken bits are easy items to check.

The return spring arrangement on the Skyline goes over-centre at about half pedal, thus your pedal stays on the floor if there's a hydraulic problem.

I don't waste time on brake/clutch hydraulics, simply buy a new master cylinder.

So it was working OK, fluid level is correct and now it's not working.

No fluid leaks on the concrete.

Push type clutch?

Unless you've destroyed the pressure plate, it has to be either master cylinder, broken pedal, broken throw out lever or perhaps pivot ball.

The broken bits are easy items to check.

The return spring arrangement on the Skyline goes over-centre at about half pedal, thus your pedal stays on the floor if there's a hydraulic problem.

I don't waste time on brake/clutch hydraulics, simply buy a new master cylinder.

How would I have destroyed the pressure plate? And how would I be able to tell if that is the problem? I'm hoping it's just the master cylinder, I'll get a new one and hope for the best

So I'm waiting for a new master cylinder to arrive, meanwhile I took the old one out, and with the resevoir still full I pumped it by hand and it made a gurgling noise and very little fluid came out at all. I take it this is a definite sign the master cylinder is the problem?

I've swapped in the new master cylinder, and tried to bleed the system. There is a little pressure back in the clutch pedal, but I can't seem to get any more back. Is it just a case of there still being air in the system, and more bleeding required?

Are you bleeding at the slave cyl or the master cyl?

Try cackling the outlet pipe of the master cyl and see if air comes out from there

I've bled both. Only started to get a little bit of pressure after bleeding the master cylinder. I'll try the outlet pipe

If you have some pressure, then bleed more son. if bubbles keep coming the keep bleeding

There were no more bubbles coming out, just liquid...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...