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The "small attachment"....if that is the oxidised cad-plated can in the foreground, is the factory pressure sensor. The boot is covering the wiring connector.

If you get desperate then you spin that sensor off and put a T-piece in with the original and the new sensor hanging off it. Or use the hose method shown earlier (I don't actually like the hose method because that hose will have a lot of air in it.)

Edited by GTSBoy

ALSO, does anyone know the diameter i need for the water temp adaptor? Not sure what the radiator hose size is, and only way to find out is if i take it off...which i would rather not do cos i wont have a car to drive to the shops to buy one with lol.

Don't worry about it,,,tell one of the boys at Just Jap what car you have and they will know what size top radiator hose adaptor you will need. Take your water temp sender with you and make sure it screws in. It shouldn't screw in all the way because it has a tappered thread,,,but again the boys will point you in the right direction. That little screw is very important though,,,it needs a wire attached to it and earthed on the body.

Cheers

Neil.

I just opted to get a sandwich plate. Not bothered to go through the trouble of locating that plug with the engine in.

So i've got this oil pressure sender,

http://images.esellerpro.com/2347/I/946/3/lrgLP1017.0%20-%202012.JPG

i know the bottom end connects to a sandwich plate port, but im not sure how to hook up the 2 ports on the other side of this sender (with the 2 black caps). Where do these need to be connected to, and with what? :\

i've tried looking around, but couldn't find an answer. People's DIYs just stop at installing the sender onto the sandwich plate.

Thanks everyone,

i did some more digging around because my instructions said to connect the 2 terminals to the same thing lol.. or i just read it wrong.

Anyways, i grounded 1 terminal and the other went to the sensor wire on my gauge. All running good now :)

Last question, what is normal operating pressure? My gauge is digital reading in PSI. When i put my foot down whilst the car isn't in gear, it shoots to about 89 PSI, whilst on the stock oil pressure gauge in the dash, it only hits up to 5 which is converted to about 71 PSI.

When in idle, it's reading around 26-27 PSI. It's a few psi different from what it reads on the stock gauge, but i've also heard the stock one isn't too accurate.

Stock is 2-4 bar, depending on the engine and the vagaries of the dash gauge. Cruising is about 4 bar, again subject to the above. High revs is about 6 bar or so.

Bigger and higher pressure pumps, engines built with closer clearances can all result in higher pressures than that. Your 89 psi is pretty much smack on 6 bar so would appear normal. 100 psi is usually a sign of heavier oil or an N1 pump.

  • 9 months later...

Hi team, I'm just going to ask this here unless you think I should ask it somewhere more specific, I have an RB26 and I'm going to install a water temp sensor but I'm interested to know if I can delete the old gauge sensor and if there are after market sensors that will fit in that spot. I know the thread for the OEM gauge sensor is M12x1.25 but most sensors I am finding say they are 1/8 NPT. Are these compatible threads, or does anyone know of a sensor that will fit in the OEM location for use with an aftermarket gauge.

Also I don't have a water oil cooler/warmer set up, just a filter straight on to the block. Do I need to buy a filter relocation kit to install an oil pressure sender? What I've read in this thread has made sense, but I'm just not sure if I need an oil cooler and oil pressure sensor sensor.
I'm pretty new to skylines and maintenance/modding but am pretty mechanically minded.
Thanks,

1/8 of an inch is just over 3mm. So ignoring the fact that an M12x1.25 is a metric thread and NPT is an imperial (well, actually it's not, it's a US spec, but it's similar to BSP which IS imperial) then the chances of a ~3mm male thread engaging with a 12mm female thread are approximately the same as getting a hotdog stuck in a hallway.

You might be able to find a suitable bush with the appropriate threads inside and out to permit you to do it. It would certainly be possible to make one on a lathe if you couldn't find one on the shelf somewhere in the world. Hell, there are so many "dodgy installation facilitators" on eBay these days trying to help people do things like that that you could probably find one in seconds.

A sandwich plate will be the easiest and best way to fit an aftermarket oil temp or pressure sensor.

Do you then just leave the factory sensor disconnected?

I like to run both...

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/oil-pressure-gauge-t-piece-m12-x-1-5-tp-m12x15

problem solved. you can give me a hug and a kiss when im on the coast next.

  • Like 1

Just be aware of a little trap when using that sort of T for a water temp gauge, especially on an RB. Where the sensor screws into a hole vertically downward then such a T is likely to end up with an air bubble in it any time you let the coolant out. Then NEITHER of your temp sensors will actually be in the coolant and their response time and accuracy will be shitful.

The factory sensor pokes down through the hole into the coolant and so doesn't form an air pocket. Putting a vertical spacer in like that means you also need to consider putting a means of bleeding up at the top of it too.

For the typical oil pressure fitting on the side of the block it would be fine, no problem.

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