Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Been reading up on fuel line size in the forums here and it seems that 5/16ths size line which is about 8mm ID, (ie, standard skyline size) seems to be sufficient for 500 - 550hp plus. (This will be my target)

Just want to ask if anyone sees any issues with the following..

My feed to the fuel rail from a Walbro 460lph will be 5/16ths rubber hose from the pump to the hard line under the car and rubber hose again to the rail.

Rail to reg is also 5/16th and reg back to tank is 5/16th split into 2x 1/4" hard lines. (original carby setup)

All other overflow and feed lines are also 5/16th.

Only issue that I'm concerned with is that I believe the Walbro 460s have a 3/8th outlet and I didn't want to downsize from 3/8th to 5/16th after the filter... Will this be an issue??

Thanks for the feedback in advance..

G

The 460's outlet can squeeze into the 5/16 hose with a little persuasion. My evo runs 6mm return with the same pump, you will have no issues.

Make sure you check the fuel pressure if keeping the stock reg to make sure it doesn't skyrocket. I have only ever fitted one using the Nismo reg, and I know the stock s15 one can't flow enough.

Hey Scotty, no worries and thank you for your help throughout the recent months during my research on this. As you can understand, I don't want to get to my dyno slot and have overlooked something.

Using a sard reg so should be good.

As long as 5/16th lines can see over 500hp.. ill be happy.

As long as 5/16th lines can see over 500hp.. ill be happy.

I have made well over 400kw on factory lines, the only issue was the fuel filter in a few cases. Changing that to a 40 micron stainless mesh filter fixed any flow issues. Worst case just bypass the stock filter on the dyno.

I use GJ drivelines for the earls. Motorsport Connection is another a good supplier for Speedflow etc. Even Scotty's Customs usually keep one or two in stock for customers. :P

  • Like 1

I've just measured the inside diameter of the hardline running along my car and it's 6mm

Of course, 5/16th fuel line has an 8mm diameter and I am setup to run 5/16th from a walbro 460. I figured the hardline would be 8mm ID as well but now I am concerned I will have a flow issue.

Scotty, you've mentioned to me that 5/16th line will be fine but are the standard hardlines on a skyline 6mm ID as well?

This is interesting. Im planing on max 800hp thats to the crank. Will number 6 feed work for this goal and number 8 for the return. I have removed the hard line from my r32 gtr. Im planning on running the braided stuff.

I would be swapping the lines around, you want the larger one on the feed usually.

Power isn't the measurement, it depends only on your pump capacity. If you had a 2000hp pump you will need larger lines and reg.

Thats interesting. I always thought return line has to be bigger. Looking at the hydraulic machines at my work. All the return line are bigger. If the fpr can't return the fuel fast enough because the lines become the resistance and if that becomes the issue why have a fpr if it cant regulate the fuel pressure.

Can anyone else contest to this fact Hmmm.

Most regs only have a 2mm hole to return fuel, how could a 6mm line be a restriction if that's the case? Yes, the return is low pressure, but it won't be that much of a restriction. As long as the return can flow more than the reg needs to bypass (while the injectors are off) you are fine. Even better with the fuelab style reg which automatically slows the pump down.

More important than the return line size is to remove (or drill out) the vac generator from the fuel tank, as most cars have a restriction in there these days.

The guys at race car engineering recommend -6 fuel line to rail, -8 return to surge and even -10 surge overflow to tank.

All in the name of reducing pressure where you don't want it. Especially when using twin pumps that can handle some big flow.

If upgrading the lines then by all means, but sometimes you need to work with what's there from the factory.

My 6an return is fine running twin 255 Walbro's. If you can run 35psi at idle then your return is large enough, any larger is wasting cash.

Large single pumps require massive lines on the feed side though, to stop cavitation.

Im planing using 3 044 pumps. To supply my small 800cc injectors. I want to invest in a good fuel pump set up for future use. So ill spend some time looking at line sizes and the way it should set up. One trip at a high end car show should by itself lead to seeing other drag racing setups. I do feel that I should run a line that can flow my needs and more, but for some reason in my head I still feel my return should always be bigger than my feed line. But ill contact some drag racing shops and see whats going on when it comes to fuel setup.

Buying my cell and surge tank and using all the lines and fittings ill need I can see me running into 3k plus. I need to sit down and plan this out.

Does any one have the size and thread pitch for the feed and supply. Side of a bosch 044 pump. Thanks.

All good, but a drag setup won't suit if you plan to drive the car on the road. Those of us with fuel heating issues will warn you will require a large adjustable speed pump to keep fuel temps under control.

3 Bosch pumps will look the part, but you can max 1000's with a single Walbro on factory lines.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hmm. I would disagree to a point. I feel a wolbro pump doent have enough volume, now dont get me wrong here but why would you see all these big 044 pump setup im most peoplea trunks if it isnt needed and the hp goals are around 1000hp.

I ant think no single wolbro pump can do that. I do believe that variable pump would be better but never really have had any experience with them. And for the heat issue a cooler can easily be installed.

I have made well over 400kw on factory lines, the only issue was the fuel filter in a few cases. Changing that to a 40 micron stainless mesh filter fixed any flow issues. Worst case just bypass the stock filter on the dyno.

where are these filters available? Got a link or pic of one?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...