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Can Driving With Overdrive On At Low Speeds Cause Stalling

DN14

By DN14,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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DN14 Explorer

DN14

Posted
Posted

this has been happening very recently, yesterday i was driving then while going in for a turn my r33 stalled on me

happened again today was turning then stalled on me

i noticed it happens when i press the acceleration firmly then let go and go in for a turn it stalls

could the OD function be the cause for this?

ill also note that i usually have to press down the gas pedal when starting the car otherwise it just wont even attempt to turn over

sonicz Rising Star

sonicz

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm pretty sure I know what you are talking about. When you come to a stop after being at speed say above 40kph, the engine just dies very peacefully at the moment the car stops. You are close when you suspect it has to do with the transmission.

I'm at almost 100% certain it is due to a malfunction in the automatic transmission where the "clutch" does not disengage gear fast enough to allow the engine to keep turning with the wheels stopped, and thus stalls it.

The malfunction will be due to wear in the auto box or old fluid or a low fluid level or most likely all of these. Saggy transmission mounts can also cause the transmission to "stick" for longer than it should so get that looked at as well.

Here is my recommendation to you and I'm almost certain it will fix your problem.

Change your automatic transmission fluid with Nulon synthetic. Do a complete flush, as in take out the line that feeds out of the transmission cooler back into the transmission and let the car run pouring out waste fluid while someone tops up fluid until new fluid starts coming out. Then drop the pan clean the pan and magnet and filter. You can buy a gasket set from repco for $50.

Top up again with the car In park and keep checking fluid level to be on H mark with car warm.

Clean Your AAC valve.

Advance your timing a little bit.

Edited by sonicz
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Maybe.

But afm reverberations do make the car stall when snapping the throttle shut. Running a bov and checking if that fixes it is easier than a trans flush (although you should do a trans flush anyway, I don't think it will fix the problem though)

The "advance your timing a little bit" is poor advice. What's a little bit?

I wouldn't be recommending randomly advancing timing on any car, let alone a turbo.

sonicz Rising Star

sonicz

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yes that could be it as well, though if that were the case would it not happen and bog down at any speed? Say if you were to pop the car in neutral while driving?

I went into the specifics I did because I've dealt with the exact same problem and got all sorts of talk about AFRs and injectors, intakes and electronic aspects which I found strange as the car did not exhibit any of the problems expect when at very low speeds and then stopping which led me to believe it was drive train problem the ecu was not expecting. I could feel the car holding gear too long when slowing down and the gear not disengaging properly to allow the torque converter to work and staling the engine. I changed the gearbox mount and flushed the transmission (it was low when checked as well) and it solved the problem completely.

Cleaning the AAC vavle and advancing timing helped a lot at making the car hold good idle rpm faster as well before I did the above and almost eliminated the problem though it was not the root cause.

As for advancing the timing I agree its dangerous, but based on my experience (not that it means much) most rb25 skylines have a large safety margin when it comes to advancing the timing via the CAS. I.e most are running colder plugs than they should, running richer than they should, and I have never noticed noticed a stockish one pinging after a small advance. By small i mean just turn the cas maybe a few mm. When he said he has no BOV I assumed he means he just has a stock skyline with the stock BOV, not no BOV. With slightly advanced timing the car just responds to changes in RPM much faster and was better at catching the stall in my case.

After I found out what the problem was and went back to stock 15 degrees timing but just hated it and kept it a little advanced. I know people that keep the cas at full advance and nothing sounds like its pinging. Why is the stock timing so low on RB25s anyway.

OP we need more info, does it happen when you come to a complete standing still, and can you prevent the stall but quick;y popping the car in neutral when you feel it about to stall?

Edited by sonicz
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hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted

Agreed, if issue is happening with timing set where it should be, don't 'solve' it by advancing timing. Could well be auto trans pressue issue though, if not engaging overun clutch properly to keep engine revs up when going to closed throttle? I think, anyway, its what mine is doing and the issue i'm looking into.

sonicz Rising Star

sonicz

Posted
Posted (edited)

Agreed, if issue is happening with timing set where it should be, don't 'solve' it by advancing timing.

Nah bro, more timing is hektik. Thats why its called an advance, and running less is just retarded :whistling:

Edited by sonicz
DN14 Explorer

DN14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the auto trans fluid was in nick condition & plenty in there, didn't need replacing but i did a quick flush anyway as i already had bought the fluid

its never stalled while at a stand still both the times it happened was while i was moving in for a turn

i truly dont think its due to not having a bov iv been running without one for a fair bit now and has never ever done this till just recently

as a matter of fact started happening couple days after i put in a catback system

ill just have to take it in to a mech to get it looked at

DN14 Explorer

DN14

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

a little update..

few days after i posted this thread my turbo comepltely f**kd up i took a look and the shaft had like 3cm play literally

so im guessing the turbo was the reason why my car started stalling

just finished removing & installing the new turbo few hours ago (first time & did it alone) and everything seems fine

the actuator on the turbo is set at 11psi though when i took it for a run according to my gauge it got up to 16?

i know the actuator is rubbing against the side of my car could this play a role in this?

Edited by DN14

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