Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anywhere in Brisbane that people can reccommend without me being ripped off (for being a female) to get the new clutch installed and get the gearbox fixed. I'm too affraid to drive it to gavins.. because it might break.

I will ring around tomorrow and I just want to get the new clutch put in (when i get it) and get the synchro changed in the box. We aren't millionaires or computer nerds.. So at this point in time this is all we can afford. I know most of you will say "Get the whole box fixed" but quite frankly, we will struggle to get this fixed.

Soo.. just opinions on where to take my car in brisbane to get it fixed.

Thanks in advance :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4518-gearboxclutch-places/
Share on other sites

But then.. wouldn't it be easier to do the clutch and gearbox at the same time? Save labour costs and stuff? I wish gavin would give me an account. It would be soo much easier :D

I'm seriously thinking of selling. Its just problem after problem.

The car has cost us up around $30000 now and there have been no mods done at all!

You need Squizz and Pete's mobile clutch services.

Available whenever they feel like a 7hr drive and payable only in beer. Not-fast, sort of reliable, crap service and swearing a guarantee!!!

As for the box, syncro's are over-rated :P

Originally posted by Squizz

You need Squizz and Pete's mobile clutch services.

Available whenever they feel like a 7hr drive and payable only in beer.  Not-fast, sort of reliable, crap service and swearing a guarantee!!!  

As for the box, syncro's are over-rated :P

Squizzter and Petester to the rescue :)

I love you guys :love:

I dont think you really know how much I appreciate this :uh-huh:

Get Squizz to do it!!! have seen their previous modifying projects (na/turbo 32) :lol:

Have heard that Direct Clutch are very good. mates of mine in Gladstone drove down to there to get their cars done there. I would've done the same when my clutch died, except i kinda welded the flywheel & clutch plate together. Interestingly i was able to still drive my car to the local shop this way. Just turned the key and the car lurched and then started. Could change up gear without clutch but not down. I did this very late at night so there was no traffic, cause i couldn't fully stop at intersections, just slow down and hope like hell there was nothing coming.

I know what you mean about selling. Allways thinking about getting rid of mine for something more sensible.

Know what you mean about driving with no clutch. Years ago I broke a clutch cable, had to drve to the bank, then to the spare parts dealer.

Cops in an unmarked police car pulled me over. Said I was driving erratically - er, well yes officer. They thought it may have been a stolen car, they were quite nice about it actually.

Then right in front of them, off I went jerking away in second gear by turning the ignition key LOL.

That amount is including 5000k's servicing and stuff as well.

Everyone has probably heard this all before but here goes again. The wire that goes from speedo to ecu was disconnected. So there for HICAS, abs and speed sensor weren't working. And we got the boost controller and boost gauge (the only "mods" we've done) that was around $1000. Then everytime I go in for a service.. they find something wrong so I have to go and get that fixed. Diff seal.. Changing the oils cost a fair wack to the pocket. Now the clutch and gear box. And also the odometer stopped.. Getting that fixed was a few hundred.

When you type it out here.. It doesn't look much. But we've owned it since the end of march.. I suppose you could say april and yeah. Just dont seem to be getting anywhere with anything. By the time we finish its going to be a bloody brand new car. AND STILL GOING TO BE SLOW!

Originally posted by NIZ30

Get Squizz to do it!!! have seen their previous modifying projects (na/turbo 32) :lol:

You now that thing did a 14.2 with no LSD :P Pretty scary under full noise changing 1/2 and 2/3 wiggled all over the place.

Yeah NismoGirl don't sell the car, if you've spent that much then there can't be too much left to go wrong with it. Unless you replace it with a brand new car you may end up in the exact same position with regards to the repairs.

It sounds like you got really unlucky, most Skylines do not have that many problems (though clutch/synchro's is common on ones ~7 years or older) but no matter what model of car you get there are always lemons (even Mercedes/BMW etc). At least once it's all fixed you'll know you'll have a good car even if it did cost you more than you thought it would.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...