Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Merli if you read all of my explaination instead of using a few lines to try and make me look bad or wrong you would understand alot more where a person is coming from!!! I articulated exactly what i meant but if you chose to pick apart sections of my post you have choosen to miss the real point and know you have my apoligies!!!

A grain of salt mate, maybe my original comments where a little harsh (or inarticulate) but hey if you think that EVERYBODY"S opinions are fantastic, spot on first time, sound mechanical knowledge then hey good for you; cause i dont, and that was my point.

Oh and i never EXPLICITY meant anything, have a look at class rules in drag racing not just street meet rules.

ie if you run ss/gas for instance: do what you like to your car as long as it has opening doors, a small block and carbied they are the basic regs to be meet...

It is harder to cheat with that then racing 15 other guys in a similar make or model car as in rally with lancers and so forth but yes it can be done and yes people cheat but at the end of the day you still have to race the clock and if you run the car 50 times with the cheating mods you still only have a time that yiou are trying to beat!!!

My point was and always has been you are still racing the clock to better yourself!!!

  • Replies 108
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

then it is still a race against the clock and human error judgement are still the main forces behind results!!

s13drifter that sounds alot like drag, circuit, rally (best cheater wins.... welcome to motorsport)

alot less skill in driving a street cat the drags than around a track me thinks :(

I'm putting a bit of effort into moving to the motorsport industry in the next couple of years (thanks Sydnekid) and the rule book is as much needed by the engineer as the engineering knowledge.

I will just about guarantee that as soon as someone finds an advantage over the others they will in this order:

1. be accused of cheating

2. be copied as soon as the detail is understood

3. find their innovation ruled in or out of the competition

just read the Godzilla history or any other race engineering book/magazine

Then of course there are the real cheats.........

I think yeah to dive a street car at the track is alot more skillfull than at the drags.... But as my first post says i just dont like that people downgrade the sport when all they have done is raced a stockish street car or never raced at all at a strip that is all i meant!!! Word to geoff your 1,2,3 guide has been seen and felt so many times!!!!

Parity is a curse Dan, but it stops motorsport from overdomination. Be interesting to see F1 get decent changes. First get rid of all driver aids and wings, so body downforce only.

Schuey will still kick butt tho.

I think yeah to dive a street car at the track is alot more skillfull than at the drags.... But as my first post says i just dont like that people downgrade the sport when all they have done is raced a stockish street car or never raced at all at a strip that is all i meant!!! Word to geoff your 1,2,3 guide has been seen and felt so many times!!!!

Yes, there may be skill in drags with heavily tuned drag machines, but what is the relevance of those cars to your average Skyline?

LW.

  • 2 months later...

I think 'dyno rice' is when you have a guy talking about how his car is going to do this or that time at the drags, whilst waving a dyno sheet around as if it has determined it all by itself. These people are consistantly a pain always have been, it's not a new thing.

Other than that you can't say dyno's are a rice device because they really have a practical use.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...