Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Razer Kraken Pro, $70, yes has mic built in.

Sound is pretty good, although the clamping usually hurts my head after a few hours with glasses on.

Compared to cheap Logitech my brother uses, Kraken is a lot better. The mic is a bit shit though, good noise isolation but doesn't pick up my "full" voice (lacks the lower frequencies, maybe I position it incorrectly).

Over, happy with them.

  • 1 month later...

Thermaltake Shock Spin, cost around $70 from memory. Doesn't have a built in mic as per normal headsets, but comes with a clip on mic, which suited me better as rarely use a mic.

Sound is awesome, nice deep bass.

Most comfortable headphones I've ever used, self adjusting band and soft ear muffs are mint. Better than the Turtle Beach unit I had, too much clamp pressure which hurt after 30 minutes of use.

104a.jpg

  • 1 month later...

I use a Logitech G4?? Cheap and Light and they don't interfere with the sound from my main speaker's as I ONLY use the Headset for Teamspeak and other voice comms while on-line.

If your trying to keep the House disturbance as low as possible as good set of Surround units is ideal as you can be in a FPS game and hear from particular directions etc IF the game has that sort of coding otherwise Surround Sound Headset is a waste of time and money (it is after all why we have 2 ears remember)

  • 2 weeks later...

I use Astro A50's.

They are a supremely comfortable wireless headset. Sound is amazing and i've never had any issues with the microphone. I love that when I slide it back up into the vertical position no one can hear me anymore.

They are kind of expensive but I had a heap of JB vouchers from family members and haven't regretted buying them since.

I use a set of Tritton Kama stereo headphones. Cost about $60 and has a built in mic. I got them on special from JB. They have decent sized (40mm) speakers and soft padded ear surrounds. They're awesome for gaming, plugs straight into my ps4 controller. The mic works with my phone and sounds good for music too. Win win!

Sennheiser 650HD were $700 odd dollars a few years ago. Now about $450. These were purely bought for gaming (even though they're pro headset).

P.s doesn't really matter to much of what headset you got, if you got a bad sound card then the sound will not improve with a better headset.

Astro A50 - PC

It's wireless, has a built in microphone, when I swing the microphone back up to vertical it cuts the mic which is useful. They are supremely comfortable (Had Turtle Beach PX21? headphones prior and they were comfy but don't even compare to the A50's)

Sound quality is amazing, I can't fault them.
They are expensive as hell, I was lucky enough my family buys me JB Hi-Fi vouchers etc. as presents.

I run them off the optical port on my motherboard but will be looking to get a proper PCI sound card in the near future to make the most of the headset.

Logitech G35. By far the best value for money headset i have ever owned (and i would go as far as to say it is the best on the market). If i can help it i will never own another headset again. Honestly after being a pro gamer, and having sold the stuff, if you spend over $200 on a headset you are an idiot.

Mine is now 4 years old and looking a little worse for wear. So i'll get a new G35 soon.

I seriously can't recommend this headset enough.

Edit: to properly answer Op questions

Which headphones are you using for gaming etc? Logitech g35

Does it have a mic in built? Yes, fantastic quality, and it lifts up and auto cuts out.
How much did it cost? $109 i think.... around that
How did they compare to others you have used? Shits on headsets worth more than double the price.

I ended up going with the Sennheiser G4ME ZERO headset. They also have a "ONE" line in that branding too at the same pricing

I had HD 555s (modded to HD595 spec) and loved them with an amp'd soundcard, so yeah giving the ZERO's a whirl.

I've got a Xonar Essence STX sound card with onboard amp, had it for a few years so the ZERO was the choice of the ONE due to the ZERO will perform better with some juice through them.

I didn't pay anywhere near the current retail price so they were quite a good choice for what I ended up paying.

Yeah I'm not a USB fan personally.

I actually purchased G35s, used them for a week and went back to my HD555... They sounded so 'tinny' I couldn't use them, given I do listen to a bit of music as well through my headphones.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...

I should report back :D

Went with the Senn G4ME ZERO headset. The ZERO needs to be amplified and as I've got a Xonar Essence STX, that was no problem at all.

I forgot to enable the amp gain so initially I was like "These are shithouse like the Logitech USB rubbish I had"... Once I turned the gain up and put some power through them.

WOWweee. Absolutely sensationally immerse for gaming. Previously I had Senn HD555 (modded to 595s) and they were good but these are better again IMO. Did a bit of tweaking in the sound card settings and improved a bit more.

Would recommend for the money. Do get a bit hot after wearing for longer periods, but that's just a sign to get up and grab a beer lol.

One thing to note, on my cheapie case, the front headphone ports (both in and out) provided inferior 'service/experience' i.e. they were crap. On my new case (In Win) the ports are much better.

This translate to better performance for my $70 Razer headset.

If any of you really enjoy your sound/music then do yourself a favor and get one of these

http://fredsamplifiers.com.au/

I got one a year ago $40, transferred my awesome headphones into outstanding headphones.

Then I purchased a good quality copper cable and they are out of this world.

A lot of people don't think cables make a difference but they do, almost all headphones have shit cables even $1000+ sets

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...