Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Looking for opinions on paint damage to the roof of my R32 GTR

The car was resprayed in the original colour in Japan and whilst a good finish, the roof has a few spots where there is damage to the paint, under the clear coat.

I have had a quote to respray the whole roof (removing all glass) and fix crazing on some plastics components for $2k. By the time i buy new trim pieces from nissan and pay to remove/refit glass it will be close to $3.5k

Sorry but to the point i was wondering if anyone is aware of any other options other then a full respray of the roof as its isolated to a few areas only. Im also not quite sure what paint damage it is.

Here are some pics:

post-15055-14231999838324_thumb.jpgpost-15055-1423200002098_thumb.jpg

Cheers Jase

Edited by gts25
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453566-opinions-on-r32-gtr-paint-damage/
Share on other sites

no real options, you cant get away with a fade out on a roof. if the job wasnt done properly and there is damage under the clear then its a strip back and repaint. if its not done properly then your gonna end up back in the same position

Haha I'm sure it won't be the last time you open your wallet for the GTR. Unfortunately most peoples wallets are continuously open while owning a GTR, including mine.

Just make sure the people fixing the paint strip it right back otherwise the problems might arise again in the future. Some shops will just scuff the paint back and spray over the top unfortunately.

  • 4 weeks later...

Hello! I don't think it can be fixed in other way than repainting. I had such problems with my car too. I had to repaint the whole roof. Then I applied a colour protector from colourshield, and everything has been OK with it so far. Hope, I will never have to do it again...

Edited by trevordd

I have been back to the panel beater and yep it needs to be resprayed. Roof is going to be stripped right back and resprayed, down the a pillars and the rear quarters. Whilst they have the car I am having all plastic components repsrayed (grille, N1 kit, mirrors, tail lights etc).

Job will be done properly and all glass will come out. The great thing about it is the windscreen guy they use is going to use a generic rubber over the edges and over the front and rear windscreens rather then me forking out $800 for the original trim kits. The screens will be removed, reinstalled and custom rubber install done for <$500

Will be done in the next few months..

  • 8 months later...

hey guys

to wrap this thread up properly, i had my car resprayed last week (roof, rear quarters with glass out and most plastic parts) and picked it up yesterday

it came out fantastic. heres a shot of the roof:

post-15055-14487945134986_thumb.jpg

as previously discussed a generic rubber was used out on the outside of the screens instead of the expensive nissan trims kits. in my opinion it looks just as good if not better then the multiple piece trim kit. all up to remove and reinstall glass with genuine inner clips and generic rubber was approx $500.

heres what the rubber looks like

post-15055-14487949191599_thumb.jpg

post-15055-14487949472575_thumb.jpg

post-15055-14487949943393_thumb.jpg

stoked with how the car came out

got the work done at johns twins in wollongong. cant speak highly enough of their work and customer service

terry - unfortunately i was interstate when the work was done so i didnt speak to the windscreen guy. the rubbers look to be of good quality

jase

Edited by gts25

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...