Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I just finally pulled out my spark plugs and it appears the plugs my car was running ar..

NGK R PFR5A 11

Now i know nothing about this plug.. and Ive been told by a number of people, the best Plug for my skyline is the..

NGK BCPR7ES

Anyone able to let me knwo the difference between these two?

Thank you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45371-pfr5a-11-or-bcpr7es/
Share on other sites

The one you took out was a heat range colder than the "recommended" one from NGK. Depending on what is done to your car that should determine what heat range you need. Correct me If im wrong (which i probably am) but i think for every 75hp you add to your engine you need to go a heat range hotter.

Ok Ive got it norrowed down to these few..

PFR5A 11 - These were in my car, and the safest bet is to replace them with the same one.

PFR6A-11 - These were Reccomended by NGK's Website

BCPR7ES - These were reccomended by a number of people on the forum

BCPR6ES - Same as above.

For record, my Car is apparently stock as a rock as far as i'm aware.

I am having some very bad starting problems first thing in the morning .. it MAY be the spark plugs, but im not sure if it is.

Stock heat range is apparently '6' .. So i wonder why the previous owner was running heat range '5' in the car?

I haven't had any probs with Pfr5g-11 they are expensive plugs but once you re-gap to the rite size say .8 - .7 depends on how much boost your running they should be fine.

You will also find a few most skylines will run a hotter plug eg the Pfr5 as it fires quicker then a colder plug eg the Bcpr7es.

Ok well I ended up getting a set of..

BCRP6ES

The reason being the following..

PFR5A 11 - Platnium 1.1 Gap

PFR6A-11 - Platnuim 1.1 Gap .. (yeha I know i cant spell that word)

BCPR7ES - Copper possible .9 gap

BCPR6ES - Same as above.

So I decidecd i wanted copper of platnuim, ..

and it just came down to choosing the correct heat range ..

considering i was running a heat of 5 .. i decided 7 would be cold, 6 is stock..

so ta-da!

im almost done im just not sue where one of these wires goes :D

Cool

make sure all the wires go back correctly, if its the same one I almost forgot to put back on, its the earth wire for the coils, it goes under the last bigish size bolt for the coils

let everyone know how it goes

Well I took it down the street and almost had to get it pushed home..

I forgot to tie up all the hoses so i blew a hose. or 4 :)

anywya with that fixed everything seemed fine.. except for that box that sits up the back over the cover.. i accident put the wrong bolts in the coil pack

so i dont have this bolted down .. also there is a little thing hanging off that box, which has an earth and i have NO IDEA of where to atatch the box and this earth too

:S

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...